Recommended Posts

I am new to the gas forge and I am looking for some information. Please forgive my ignorance. I have k-wool already.

1. Do I need rigidizer on that if I put kast-o-lite

2. If I put Kast-o-lite on I am assuming I will need the measurements.

3. How thick can I apply it?

4. What are the curing procedures?

5. How deep can I set the burners. IE should they be countersunk, flush, or a bit past the casting?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, you should rigidize each layer of refractory blanket for two reasons: First is safety, rigidizer encapsulates ceramic fibers preventing them becoming airborne and a breathing hazard. Second is to make the blanket more rigid, a hard refractory applied to it can crack and flake off if the wool compresses in use.

You shouldn't need to do more than a rough estimate of area to mix sufficient Kastolite, a little more or less isn't significant.

How thick to apply Kastolite varies according to personal opinion and experience. I put 1/2" on the forge floor and 1/2" or less on the walls and roof. Other prominent smiths here apply 1/4" all round. I think these are a good working range of thicknesses. Some guys get crazy but I think 1" is excessive unless the forge is going to see heavy physical use or fast material cycling. That's my opinion though.

The type of rigidizer will determine how it cures. Kastolite is a water setting castable with a working time, setting time and final cure cycle close enough to that of "Portland cement concrete" you can follow the cure method and timeline. I am NOT saying it is or contains Portland Cement it does NOT. They just have set and cure characteristics close enough too the same as to be interchangeable. If that isn't clear, please give a shout.

The burners should only be set barely into the liner, 1/4" - 1/2". You'll want to cut the burner ports through the liner with enough extra space to rigidize and plaster with Kastolite. The burner ports take direct contact from the burner flame and need the protection. It is becoming a common practice to form the burner ports into burner nozzle flares, because it works quite well.

This is laid out in more detail in the "Forges 101" section.

Frosty The Lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.