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I Forge Iron

Tomahawk drift


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I’ve been hammering this nightmare out with a power hammer named Joe. I’m wondering what drift to buy or make and from what material it should be? It’s going to be a war hammer / Tomahawk if all goes according to plan and my arm doesn’t fall off . Any help with drift choice would be greatly appreciated. around 1”-1.25” seems the standard but materials from ductile iron to 4140 tool steel are suggested by YouTube University alumni.E863DCAD-7917-425E-BDA8-CC585FE44F89.thumb.jpeg.030aebc2c4fbaa96e1a3d62c3c09d3fe.jpeg7D6D452E-E611-48A4-A052-BA75676875A8.thumb.jpeg.0e66995337ced2246b5c21c989358efa.jpeg

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I made mine from 4140, works well. H-13 is awesome for hawk drifts, but a bear to forge without power hammer or striker.  I've used the ductile iron ones, but always drifted first with a steel drift, and just used the cast one for final shaping to commercial handles. They work well of you have the opening pretty close already using your slot punch or forge welded eye, but I am not sure they will hold up to hard forging.

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A drift doesn't really need to be special steel. Once you have the eye punched or slit open it on the horn and save the drift to finish it. A trick I used once for a hammer eye drift was to rough forge the drift then bring it to near welding heat and drive it into a hammer eye. Worked a treat and gave it away.

Frosty The Lucky.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just taking a hawk and belt axe class with Butch Sheeley at Arc and Flame. Great teacher and facility.  We all used commercial ductile iron drifts, and worked them hard.  Butch has made hundreds with his and had no trouble. If you  want your hawks to fit a commercial handle, I recommend spending the 30-35 $ and getting one.  I find they benefit from a little finish sanding, but are a real deal.

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