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IForgeIron is now carrying gas forge supplies, such as Inswool insulating blanket, Kast-o-lite 30, insulating bricks, etc.

Watch this space as we list the products and prices.

 

PM me for details.

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Glenn I'm glad you are doing this. It will make it much easier for new members to get some of the materials that they seem to have trouble sourcing without having to buy more than needed.

If I can make a suggestion you may want to give an estimate on how much five lbs of kastolite will cover. When I was looking into building a gasser that was something that I had a hard time figuring out until I was directed to a website of a member here.

Great idea and good luck,

  Pnut (Mike)  

 

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  • 1 month later...

The Kast-o-lite 30 bulk density after 1500*F (815*C) is listed as 87 to 97 pounds per cubic foot. Lets call it 90 pounds per cubic foot. A cubic foot is 12 x 12 x 12 inches. Divide 90 by 12 and you get 7.5 pounds per square foot at one inch thick, or 3.75 pounds per square foot at 1/2 inch thick.

One source says that when properly mixed it will make 18 cubic inches per pound of material.

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Ayup, either the propane supplier's show room or the HVAC supply up the road from me has everything a person needs to manage propane. Stop by I'll take you up and show you the shelf and bin. The refractory supplier is a 55 mile drive into the big city, you buy the gas, I'll drive.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Andren: Saying you live in the USA is a little TOO general, maybe narrow it down to a county or state. I was posing an example of how impossible it can be to get meaningful answers to questions without providing enough information first. Not that you're not welcome in my shop, you are.

Oh, and Glenn makes the deliveries personally. He drives FAST and his car gets good mileage. I'm often tempted to order something next day delivery just to see the clips on the news and listen to the sirens closing in. :lol:

Frosty The Lucky.

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Does the store sell a Manifold to connect two or more propane bottles together? A single 20# propane bottle will freeze up after an hour or two running time. A single bottle placed in the Slack Tub filled with warm water will greatly extend the running time before freeze up. Yet, the bottle will still;l freeze and have a layer of ice on the outside.

Manifolding two or three bottles together will extend the run time. However, when the bottles get low on propane, they will freeze up;. I took a Damascus Knife Blade course at Tunnel Mill, Mn. They had two 100# bottles manifolded together. The propane forge had consumed over half the propane out of the bottles by the time the forge was shut down in the evening. The next day, the forge was fired up on one bottle which froze up after several hours. The second bottle was then used and it to froze up. Then back to the first bottle as it had thawed by then.  This was a large propane forge that 4 items could be heated at the same time at welding heat.

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Good grief -- you guys have a STORE ?!?!? Wish I'd known when I first got going putting together what I needed for my gas forge -- I actually learned most of what ended up being valuable from Mike and Frosty, but somehow I missed the fact that it could all be ordered right here. Anyone have any experience with the longevity of Plistix vs. ITC 100? I got ITC, but I see a lot of people run Plistix. Also -- any consensus on the final layer over the ceramic fiber insulation? I've got Satanite, which I'm planning to apply two 1/4" layers of over rigidized and dried fiber blanket, drying each layer so I end up with 1/2" of Satanite, then final-coat that with the ITC 100. Anyone think there's a better / more long-lasting way to go? I was going to do hard fire brick for a floor over the first inch of ceramic fiber, then another inch of fiber blanket butted up to that -- coat the brick with this hi-temp fireplace mortar (2300 F rated) to give it some resistance to flux and coat the walls and ceiling with the two quarter-inch layers of Satanite, then ITC 100 over that for the final IR layer. Any better suggestions? Like kiln shelf for a bottom better than fire brick from Lowes, etc?

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Did you look? All the supplies you need to line a gas forge are available. There's a thread titled consolidated notes for first time forge builders with everything you need to know.

Pnut

Edited by pnut
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Yanni: We voted and decided to wait till you'd bought the expensive stuff before letting you know IFI has a store. 

Plistex or Matrikote is much more durable than ITC-100. 

No hard fire brick in the forge it's a major heat sink and poor insulation, (see limestone) so it requires more fuel to bring up to and maintain temperature.

Kiln shelf makes a MUCH better floor. 

Satanite is a good product and 1/2" is plenty though some guys use less on walls and roof. I wouldn't use less than 1/2" for the floor. A final wash with plistex or matrikote is a final layer of armor that will keep it working much longer.

If you're using a cylindrical shell level the bottom with ceramic blanket, feathering the edges to make up smoothly with the sides then plaster smooth with the hard refractory. Satanite in your case.

Does that help?

Frosty The Lucky.

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I just found out about inswool moldable caulking putty the other day. It's the consistency of joint compound for drywall. It seems like it would be much easier to line a forge with a moldable refractory compared  to a castable. I'm going to have to look at the entire inswool product line.

Pnut

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