jlpservicesinc

How to Forge a Straight Cut Hardie (steeled)

Recommended Posts

Was time to upgrade from my older straight cut hardie. I wanted something a little beefier on the cutting edge. Every so often I will make a new piece to replace an older one.  So decided this would be a funner way to go.. 

It was a bunch of fun..  Over the years I am amazed at the level of fit and finish that happens compared to when I started.. 

Anyhow, before everyone gets in a fit about upsetting this in the anvil..  It's a german anvil with a very thick waist and plenty of meat under the hardie hole..  

I do not recommend upsetting with a sledge hammer on the anvil anymore with London pattern anvils with a thinner heel section.. 

I've included a picture of one I made at the NEB events over the spring and fall meets 2018.. We did a working meet last spring and at the end of the day I asked if anybody wanted to see something made..   A couple of the guys said a hardie.. so made the body of it there and then put the steel face on it at the fall meet.. 
 



20180910_172221.thumb.jpg.8c5b93cdbb05f26a8c1ae25d1302829e.jpg20180910_164821.thumb.jpg.f5fc3d7c4f80c11d929d500a54bbf594.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Once again, excellent work!

As a question, when the first attempt at the weld didn't work, does that mess up the burrs you put in the 5160?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, 1forgeur said:

Very nice....As usual. Great tutorial..

Thanks..  Much appreciated.. :) 

5 hours ago, HojPoj said:

Once again, excellent work!

As a question, when the first attempt at the weld didn't work, does that mess up the burrs you put in the 5160?

No, not usually...   Ah hum.. If done right..  Choke, gasp, choke.. chuckle, chuckle.. 

 Problem was 2 fold...   The hardie was not hot enough when originally applied to the 5160... What you do is at light orange you start to sink it, then wait just a few seconds and finish driving it home..  The burrs will then deform inside the holes they just made, much like a punch going into hot metal and it swells at the tip..  This locks things together and puts the face plate directly against the main body as you finish applying the locking hammer blows.. :)  There was a small gap... :( 

The second part was the end of the first question..  There was a large enough gap between the main body and the tool steel face.. There was actually some small dust between the 2 when I pulled it to weld it..  I knew it was going to be a problem, but I was in a rush.. Foolish Jennifer....  ( I usually do the videos at the end of a long work day just before my Honey gets home.. I usually start about 330-4pm and this leaves me with about 1 to 1.5hrs before my honey will get home..   so sometimes I will rush...)   I know that in about 1hr+ that my Honey will get home and then about every 10minutes will ask me if I am almost done..  LOL..   

So the original barbs got knocked down when I hit it and it popped up.. 

What happened was I ended up putting new barbs on by pulling the old ones back up and making them just slightly longer,  though now not  as long  as they should have been, and these just sat in the old holes.. I then wire brushed the faces, fluxed them and then did a hollowish  fire to bring them up to welding temps together but not loose the face if it fell of like in a closed fire.. While it was in the fire I did the poker wiggle on the steel face plate and it was all ready stuck even before I got to the anvil.. 

I also switched coal slowly over the course of making it..  The coal I was using was a sample I had picked up and I bought 4 bags of the stuff..  It works great for general forge work, but welding with it was a problem on larger stuff..   I had to keep air poured on it to get it to come up to heat without fouling..  

Once the sample coal was depleted and the fire was cleaned it was good to go..   

Thanks, And great question..  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent vid, Jen. And in my opinion the very best hot cut by far.  It makes a clean straight cut and most important, is indispensable when making tenons etc.  It starts the needed right angle and separates the mass for the shaft. It makes it very easy to forge the shaft without screwing up that shoulder.

It also works for separating the mass for the shaft when making hardy tools.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I made one from a jackhammer bit, using the collar as the shoulder. Very handy, indeed!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the very first 3 anvil hardies i made were the cold, hot and straight..  Still have the originals though they don't look anything like the newer versions..     Getting better at forging has many merits..  :) 


John,    I years ago did the drill rod thing using the collars as the seat for the face of the anvil..  It works and for some they need not do anything more.. 

I prefer the ones shown.. Though these were designed or made for my 175HB which the hardies fit tighter in the hole..  The german hole is slightly larger than the 175 so they are a tad looser than I like.. 

I might make a new cold and hot and move these back to the 175 which is in storage.. 

Huge fan of the 1" hardie hole..  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Duck tape is a nice quick and dirty solution if the difference isn't much.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anvil..  uhm tape I find works better..  comes in different thicknesses..  some of the more expensive types come with 3m adhesive vxb.. I believe its called. 

This stuff is amazing..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/22/2019 at 10:35 AM, JHCC said:

I made one from a jackhammer bit, using the collar as the shoulder. Very handy, indeed!

I did as well, with my last hot cut, but it wasn't a straight cut. 

In fact I make most of my hardy tools out of jackhammer/pavement breaker bits because of the collar. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jen, take a couple wraps. Its cheap, quick, and easily replaced and easily found, I mean, everybody knows "duck Tape".  ;) . But hey, the point is, you can use a good heavy duty tape of most any kind to tighten up the fit of a loose hardy. 

If the "windage" is too much, there are other ways. 

Again the important thing is a good snug fit, correct? And often times, beats making a new one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.