"How to Forge a Set Hammer" (Steeled face) Video

[jlpservicesinc]

Thanks..  Great question  easily answered with a "I'd say..  NO. it's not more effective than drawing out"... .   drawing out is always the most effective unless you have an upsettng machine..  (upsetting machine 1 heat and it would have been done) 1" made 2" in 1 heat..  

In some ways the stock choice was simple.. Had on hand, can be upset fairly easily.  Beginners as well as intermediates can work with it, though it is at the limit with a hand hammer.. (it will push their ability)..

The ability to jump up a bar to a needed size can come in handy..  Seeing it done and then trying it can offer a huge reward to the individual  when they find out it's not impossible..  (2 of the most past around shared ideas is" forge welding is hard, and upsetting is to be avoided because its hard".. ) Both are basic skills for a smith.. 

The size was also chosen  because when welding on a larger face plate it can be a problem.. this came out to 1.5" or a little over for most this sized set hammer will work well.. 

The flatter video was extra fun because of the way it's upset, upsetting at an angle vs on the flat at most are told/taught.. 

This video was a lot more work to make though it took less time.. Using that shorter length of stock really meant I had to work at the upset.. Using a bar 4ft long and being able to upset it on the ground would have been 3 heats to get to the desired size..    Or if able to use the upsetting shelf of the anvil and a larger hammer... Because of filming constraints it had to be worked on the anvil.. 

[anvil]

20 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Thanks Anvil..    Hope your well and things are good out your way.. 

Lol, I was gone for 2 weeks. Got a lot of snow. Did the guy thing and got the jeep stuck, then got the ATV stuck. Then the lil kubota battery went south.  Haven't had this a much fun in a long time. As soon as I get something dug out I'm moving my portable forge into the carport. Then, finally, I can show by example instead of verbal critiques. 

So, one small critique on your fine tool and as usual well done presentation. I'm guessing the final dimension of your set hammer was ~1-1\8" or 1-1/4"? I would have started with the finished dimension and done a small upset on the hammer face and saved a long drawn out experience. 

Also, a slight rounded surface on both hammer and steel might have saved your corner. The one time I did this I cut my rags more inboard than on the edges. I used the anvil step to back up for this. Also, my steel plate was the same size as the hammer. 

All in all, the end results was as it should be, so my input is just a different approach.

In truth, I doubt your corner will be a problem.

Again, nice job and vid. Your video technique is what I intend on using. Hope that's ok.

[jlpservicesinc]

1.5"   I was going after a particular shape. And you are correct..  upsetting the end would have been easiest and yielded a working tool.. Also slot punching the eye, then drifted vs round punched , both together would have made a 15minute video.  But slot punching and drifting is so over done today..    Many have never even seen a round punched eye and how it forms the proper shape..

I usually make the steel the same size but read recently in an old book about going under size so figured I'd try it..  Of course forgetting they were using wrought iron.. Or butter..

I found flat  on both body and face works for the scarf..  I have used rounded or convex scarfs years  ago for this kind of thing and the flat for me just works better..  

The rags/burrs seem to be more of a problem with mild steel than with wrought iron.. With wrought iron you get plenty of washout,  mild steel is more resistant to extrusion into smaller areas..   So i have found there has to be an upsetting into the mild steel and then forged back out to clean up the transition/weld joint.. 

I've almost thought of cutting out directly a small strip instead of doing the burr/rags and using this instead.. Little longer process but in mild steel it would give a square face vs the burr/rag which creates a dip which then needs to be filled in with metal.. 

For those that didn't see.. One corner weld popped when hardened,   It was squished when I did the second burrs on the 5160 and keep forgetting mild steel won't tolerate it like wrought iron will.. Ideally the face plate needs to be flat with no dropped areas.. 

I was done at that point in the video..  I could have messaged the face more, decided to call it as the " How to" part was accomplished..   Besides that it was time to take a walk in the park with the Doggies and honey..

Yup, should work well..  LOL.. Of course more than likely will just sit in the tool rack till my death and then pass either to the scrap heap or to some other person who will then think it's a very old tool..   Or maybe I'll just give it away..   

 I still like to get out there and play..  so pick funky stuff like this to do..   I could have started with 4140 or 1045 and created a short video.. But that would not have been as much fun, nor shown a different skill set..  

I have forgotten more than I know now and it's funny ..  Your lucky you memory is so sharp..  

Glad you got out of all you stuck snow areas..  Its so cold today.. Hunkered in for the next little bit as I have to go change a thermostat on a 2004 audi.. fun.. NOt.. 

Looking forwards to you videos and joining in with all the fun..