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racer3j

Swage Block Solution -Use what you Have!!!

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DSC_0003-28.jpgUse what you have. This kept running in my head as I tried to figure out a solution that will not break the bank. Well, from the old racing days in stock cars, I have a taper ball joint reamer( two actually one for Mopar Upper arms and larger for GM lower A frames). Very close to the taper I want- maybe close enough to what I need. And, ta,da- I am a crazy person with 2 well equipped ShopSmiths. Why is SS relevant? Well, 1 1/8th Horsepower, less than .001 runout on the quill-a 1/2" router collet that does not require a Morse or Jacobs taper to hold tooling so any incidental side loading won't cause a tragedy, WIDE RANGE OF SPEEDS, And I have a gallon of "TapMagic." I think it is worth a try. And if I want a real tapered end mill, the one that hits my specs exactly is $59 and shipping. I also have a very good screwless sine machinists' vise with grooves to clamp to table. Once I scrounge the steel, I'll give it a try. Comments?jet Edited by racer3j

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I busted the motor mounts on a ShopSmith

Edited by nett
I can't speil for beans

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Good point! I have the huge 1/2" Milwaukee Drill that will break a wrist- that is what I drove those reamers with back then. It drove them in so well that you had to be careful not to expand too deep- you would lose the pressure fit. I might try my drillpress. It is a big old 1/2" Craftsman- don't know if I can slow it down enough. This will be a bit tougher because those were enlarging already tapered holes- if I step drill and use care it might go alright. Pilot hole, patience and coolant for this, then.jet

Edited by racer3j

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My ball joint reamer found(one of them)DSC_0003-29.jpg-- This is odd- I went to photobucket- my album named "edmunds4bar"(page 1) copied URL but hasn't worked. sorry

Edited by racer3j

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Place the image into the IForgeIron Gallery, then copy the linked thumbnail from the IFI Gallery into the IFI Forum text.

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