Casapa Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Hi finally got round to getting my first Anvil sorted. Im planning to build a wood base, have some Oak 6" x 6" section from the structure I built below. However the feet are a little twisted. Its a wrought Iron Anvil. Many moons ago I have wiped lead joints in plumbing and thought I may load the anvil base with sticks (lead/tin mix) then file flat. I think I have a suitable flux that will work. Basically Im gonna solder a slab of lead and then make it flat. I could router out the wood base, but as my Anvil is a bit of a beast and Im guessing 450lb + so lifting is a problem, though I could hire a engine lift for a spell. The lead is one idea Im thinking of, unless anyone tells me its a horific idea Its only had its first brushing, and no markings so far, can only see what looks like a H on the front. Thanks for your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 A much simpler solution is put a layer of latex caulk between the anvil and the base. Not only will it secure it solidly and compensate beautifully for any irregularities of either anvil or stand, but it will also significantly dampen the anvil's ring (which is much easier on the ears). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 You should be able to fit the wood to the base. Hint turn the anvil upside down and move the base as you fit it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branding Iron Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 +1 On caulking. Even if you create a flat surface on the bottom it may not be what you want on the top side after mounting. Get it on your base shim if needed and caulk. Beautiful porch by the way! Someday I’ll build a slate roofed gazebo just because slate shingles look amazing... How did you attach your 6x6’s on the bottom? I just built a porch using 8x8 Ash beams for support columns and ended up slotting the bottom and using stainless steel T brackets attached to the concrete. Curious to see other methods I may not have considered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casapa Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 2 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: You should be able to fit the wood to the base. Hint turn the anvil upside down and move the base as you fit it. Ha, slapshead. Thanks. Ive seen the posts on caulk, but this has a good half inch twist, caulk is fine, but has limitations on depth. Yeah natural slate looks nice, Ill grab a clear day pic for you if interested Branding Iron, though having Oak battens and copper nails was hard , even with a pilot hole I needed someone with a Timber prop under the striking point for each nail, added quite a few hours to roof. Buried 3 feet in the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 No porch swing on the side! I was thinking that the side piece would make a good lift point.... The problem with working upside down is keeping it level. However levels do help. You will kindly note I did NOT suggest burning it into the base...(while maintaining the face's temper of course!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 OK I've got an idea that might work. Set the anvil face down on a level surface and cover the base in masking tape. Now cut a bunch of wood so that you've got 1/2" square by maybe three inches long. Build a wooden frame that tightly matches the perimeter of your anvil's base. Tape in in place so that the wooden rim is level. Now start gluing in the wooden pieces, making sure that they are firmly against the anvil's base. Once everything is fully dried, take off the tape and you should have a wooden box with a bunch of wooden fingers that generally map your anvil base's topography. Take a straight edge along your rim and mark the fingers so that the shortest fingers constitute the cut line for all the rest. Cut everything nice and square. Now you've got an "anvil socket" that can be reinforced with a stump, a plate tripod, or whatever you're looking to use. For bonus points, you can add some caulk to make up the asperities from using 1/2" square stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branding Iron Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Awesome, thanks for sharing extra pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 I'd leave it as be and just make the hole unlevel.. It's easy enough to do with a wood chisel and some putty.. Most old fashion cast iron anvil stands only support the anvil around the very edge.. I don't agree with this put it really is easy enough to do to level it out.. If I had my heart set on it being even I'd weld a few beads on the bottom.. If you are concerned then so be it.. I'm not a fan of calking between the anvil and stump and like my anvil pulled directly into the stump and secured.. Lead is not a good idea as it will give and smear with each hammer stroke.. IE extrude.. I've seen it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casapa Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 18 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said: Lead is not a good idea as it will give and smear with each hammer stroke.. IE extrude.. I've seen it.. Had a feeling about this one, thanks for sharing youve seen it happen. Also thanks for all replies, gives me a few ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Leather works.. This was used lots of times in the old days.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lionel h Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 I made a stand that the ends of the anvil are clamped in with wood and the entire bottom is embedded into contstruction adhesive. Killed the ring and is completely fixed in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Nice.. that should work great.. well done.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Very nice, Lionel h. Good to see a nice Mousehole (aka The Undisputed King of Anvils) put to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 17 minutes ago, JHCC said: (aka The Undisputed King of Anvils) Ah, that explains the whole wobbly bottom thing. I was having a lot of trouble resisting such a juicy straight line. Had I only known I could've relaxed. Thanks John. Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 And yet another. I would not use lead either for the reasons given. Been there, done that. I've never used calk, but my gut tells me it wouldn't hold up over time, depending on how much actual work time you put in. I would use a wooden stump and chisel out the shape of the anvil and deep enough to hold as much sand as you need to level your anvil plus a half inch or so deeper for a good base under your anvil. And deep enough yet to hold your anvil in the stump. Once leveled, and if your fit is tight it won't move, you won't need any other fasteners, and the sand helps keep the ring down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Key being a tight fit (close) fit around the anvil.. A flat bottomed anvil this is a great way.. Hay Budden, Trenton and a few others used a hollow base... In this case a plate of 1/8" or more under the anvil would be needed.. I've tried the sand method as well with the hay budden with sand and it lasted 5 minutes as the sand just displaced filling the cavity.. I then tried to fill it with sand, pebble mix mounding it up in the center and sliding the anvil on top so the cavity was filled.. This worked for about a week than I noticed each time I hit the anvil there was a faint cloud of dust.. I pulled the anvil off to find the pebbles had started to break down rock crusher style.. Then I tried the plate over the sand and this worked well but found with how aggressive I was with the anvil when working that in short order I had the hole wallowed (worn wood).. and when working at the heel or horn the anvil would move around.. I then came up with an idea based partially with an article in the Blacksmith/wheelwright that showed a bar wrapped around the waist and bolted to a angle iron stand.. I took this and moved it a very large leap forwards (for me at the time) with 1/2" round wrapped around the waist from 2 sides threaded on the ends.. I then bored a hole completely through the center of the stump and burned a 1.25" square bar through the center.. This then had 4 holes drilled though at either side of the stump with enough room for the nuts to be tightened.. This worked well enough but the 1/2" bars started to bend at the ends where they were threaded through the square solid since the holes were 90D and the bars were at a narrower angle.. I then came up with this example and it worked flawlessly for years and years.. the only tightening that ever needed to be done was 15 years after the install, the though bolts needed to be tightened as the stump had shrank some.. I moved up to 5/8" round for all round bars and the 2 main round bars went through the stump.. The straight bars were let into the wood with notches at the same angle as the stump.. I then bent the ends to be the correct angle for the tie rods would pull straight.. The straight rectangular bars were 1"X 2.5 IIRC.. punched hot for the 5/8" bolts.. Anyhow it worked flawless till the stump lived outside for 5 years and if rotted away.. You can see it as removed from the rotten stump.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 One thing to remember about epoxies, resins, caulks and adhesives is that a lot of them will give off toxic fumes if they burn. I saw a video where a guy poured an epoxy in between his anvil and a stump with a recessed top. It hardened into a 2" thick shiny black epoxy slab with the anvil sticking out of it. The whole thing looked nice and custom in the video but I know I drop red hot steel often enough that it'd be a problem for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC Hammer Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 So far people have been talking about caulk and construction adhesive, but I think 100% pure silicone caulking works the best. It's tough, and it has held up just fine. I wouldn't use lead either. The key with these situations is to not overthink it. Keep it simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Kiss is a wonderful concept rarely as well implemented.. I'm for simple as long as it offers what I want.. lol.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatLiner Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 I don't put silicon on anything steel. It has an acid that etches steel and causes it to rust. I have pulled apart allot of granite monuments that have been pinned together with stainless steel pins and silicon where the pins have completely deteriorated within a couple of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Flatliner, That's interesting.. Whats a better thing to use? Epoxy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Support the anvil around the perimeter and wedges. Eg the steel tripod stand and hammer tong, racks I mount my anvils on. Tripods are stable on uneven surfaces. Only the outer edges of the anvil foot are supported so it can't wobble. The stand's rim is flange up angle iron fitted to the intended anvil. They're locked together by driving the tong and hammer racks between the anvil and rim. Tight as a tick, no wobble that doesn't move everything and no chemicals to burn. A minor benefit is the little shelves where the stand's rim passes between the feet on the sides. handy and fire proof. Oh from the old foundations guy's experience. If you're going to use a sand box use sharp crushed sand with between 2% - 5% fines. You'll be able to shift it to as level as you like and it'll stay there without becoming permanent. Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 3 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said: Whats a better thing to use? 3M 5200. It's a urethane based adhesive specifically designed to attach metal fittings to wood in a marine environment. I've used it extensively to glue thousands of pounds of stainless and CorTen cladding to architectural statements... sorry, I mean buildings. It's bomb proof. My Rat Hole (Fontanini) is glued to a 200# white oak block with the stuff and I don't think I could get them apart if I tried. Big blob in the middle of the anvil, heavy bead inside the periphery of the feet to minimize squeeze-out, Bob's your uncle. 100% Silicone caulk would be my distant second choice if you don't want to spend the $20usd per tube the 3m stuff costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC Hammer Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 On 1/16/2019 at 5:19 PM, FlatLiner said: I don't put silicon on anything steel. It has an acid that etches steel and causes it to rust. I have pulled apart allot of granite monuments that have been pinned together with stainless steel pins and silicon where the pins have completely deteriorated within a couple of years. Interesting. I've never heard of this. I wonder if it has something to do with it being outside? I haven't noticed any rust developing on mine. I guess I'll just watch for it, but I can't see it doing any noticeable damage to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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