Squaring a vertical railroad anvil

[Thursigar]

I only get a few hours a week to work in the garage, and just managed to get my peice of railroad track cut to length using a 4.5 inch angle grinder. The problem, however, is that one side of the flange wasn't cut straight and now I have the bottom of the vertical post uneven (see pic). I'm going to be using a thin metal plate underneath the anvil. It's pretty wobbly when I set it on end, and I know that will be somewhat reduced when I bolt it to the vertical stand. 

1. Do I need to grind it down to where its completely square?

2. Would using a wood or metal shim be enough or is that just a short/bad solution to leveling it? 

3. Any other ideas? (I cant weld).

[FlatLiner]

Mark off with a permanent marker an even grind line then use a flap wheel on your grinder to grind it down even. In my experience shims tend to walk out on you.

[Glenn]

If you bolt it to the vertical stand the wobble should be largely reduced.

[Charles R. Stevens]

For partibility mine uses a set of wooden rails to hold the flange to the flat fave of the stump, if you leave off the thin steelmplat a few good wacky withnansledge on the junction of the web and flange will crush the wood fibers and make a good seat or a good bead of silicon. 

[Thursigar]

3 hours ago, Glenn said:

If you bolt it to the vertical stand the wobble should be largely reduced.

I should have clarified that I had planned on bolting it with washers over the sides, not through the flange. Would this still be enough? I was also considering securing it with Angle Irons so it could "slide" into place but figured it would need to be more square. 

 

3 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

For partibility mine uses a set of wooden rails to hold the flange to the flat fave of the stump...

2

Interesting concept here with the wooden rails! Do you think this would still be enough support for a novice who still swings a bit wild? 

3 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

if you leave off the thin steelmplat a few good wacky withnansledge on the junction of the web and flange will crush the wood fibers and make a good seat or a good bead of silicon. 

I wasn't planning on putting any wood under the metal. Ground, metal plate, anvil. Wanted to get as much anvil under the strike as I could. 

[Glenn]

There are many ways to attach and support the rr track to vertical. Wrap the track and support together with metal bands. As long as it is not in the way of forging. you should be good. 

[Thursigar]

Any suggestions on ways to secure it to make it quieter? I know about magnets and wrapping a chain...

[Glenn]

It should not be too loud. If it is loud, anything to dampen the vibration will kill the ring. Magnets never did much good here, some light weight chain (1000 pound or less) and just a couple or 3 wraps works. Pour sand around the base works best for anvils. Anything to kill the vibrations will kill the ring.

When all else fails, use ear plugs and ear muffs. Double layer hearing protection and you can hear thunder.

[Charles R. Stevens]

Look at the pictures and you will see the anvil is supported  buy blocks either side of the web as well. Supported as is I have had no problems  opening cold shoes sideways on the rail head. And with a foot of rail it is just fine cold working shoes. A miss hit isn’t going to be a problem. Now mine is set up as a multi tool so it’s not held permanently. Permanent attachment with a bead of silicon between the flange and stump and then under the head, web and flange will reduce ring. 

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

As to being perfectly square, some factory anvils have a lean to them. And do you stand perfectly vertical? You should be fine, don't over think it.