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DE24EEE4-3D92-4658-9FF4-CCDB28EBEB97.thumb.jpeg.96b440dfd562fad8717dbc6a3b0eb346.jpeg131F232E-61A5-4348-989F-670EF33A5609.thumb.jpeg.a10bc43d94b16ed49c547e3887b593fc.jpegE6D6880B-ABE2-49E6-BA2F-93ED9B964146.thumb.jpeg.51b6c377d9e77e4d7983004731a1dd17.jpegA05BE5DE-5D38-42B9-AB10-AE47935CF7D7.thumb.jpeg.dd412e785c8b5b35d1f5d4af32d7b72a.jpegHello to all, please say hello to Bessy. I created this Anvil from a 8”x9”x5” block of steel for top block. Corralled by a 1”x1”x1/4” angle. Supported by a 13.5”x13.5”x1” plate, on top of a I-beam measuring about 12”x12”x2’x107lbs/ft. It weighs about 360lbs. I drilled 13/16” holes for 3/4” x 18” rebar removable handles for easy moving. I still have 1” gussets to be welded under the top plate to the I-beam, as well as heavy gauge wire mesh for shelving inside the beam web to hold hammers, tools, ect... 

 

It has a nice rebound and ping at this point even without the gussets in place. My next major decision is to decide if I should weld a 3/8”x3.5”x9” piece of AR500 plate in the center of the steel block?  I know the steel block will deform over time. So should I or shouldn’t I face the top block with hardened plate? Any and all comments are welcome...

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I like it as is. Start pounding hot metal for awhile before making any changes :-) here is a pic of my steel block anvil.

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I have been really interested in the AR plate for a while because I have a good source for 1/2" but I don't know what welding will do to it in terms of changing the hardness. What is your 8"x9"x5" block made of? Even if it's mild I would try forging on it as is for a while. You have a pretty good looking set up. If the block starts to mushroom or sway too much you can just dress it, or roll it and keep on forging. You said rebound is "nice". What is that in terms of percentage when you drop a ball bearing on it from a known distance? If it's over 50% it's better than some! You can put a heavy bead of silicone between the block and plate and cut the sound way down too.

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My 5lb hammer bounces about 6 times from about a 3” drop. Not very scientific but seems good to me over most of the surface... I was thinking about putting 1/8” rubber black gasket material under the block to help with the ringing. Would that affect the rebound from the block not being in direct contact with the plate? I don’t know what type of steel the block is. But the sides of the block has what appears to be die lines. If you zoom in on the block you can see them clearly. Not sure if that is a hint or not?

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Fuji, this is what I call a " Nice Chunk of Steel".

 

I second other members opinions to use the anvil "as is" for a while and only then hard surface if necessary. If the block is mild steel and if you still insist, I suggest hard surfacing. To make a full penetration weld hard plate on the surface of such block, would require a lot of work and high amperage welding machine. Laying hard facing rod seems to me much faster and easier. If the surface is damaged, clean the damaged part and apply more hard surfacing. 

Take a look at my videos on youtube how I made my last anvil...

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