David W Babcock Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 Good Day, I have an associate who has asked me to Forge him a hatchet (or smaller axe) with a nice hammer head on the reverse. I told him just use the back of the axe I could upset it over an inch wide. He would prefer a real hammer head and splitting head on the other side. I had almost a 4” piece about an inch wide by 2” thick of 4140, I thought would work well. Unfortunately I drifted the hole to similar to where you would on an axe (monosteel not mandrel wrap) and didn’t leave enough metal for the hammer, so I’m going to just make this one a nice splitting axe and start over. Here is where I need advise. When I was trying to see if I could move some metal to develo the hammer portion it was off setting my drift eye hole. So I’ve thought ok, I’ll form the base of the hammer first then drift the hole this next attempt. This may make me throw off the hammer head when I drift the hole. It would be easier to straighten that then deal with constantly reinserting the mandrel to keep the eye straight, but I’ve never attempted anything other than a wrap or monosteel axe before, with straight flat back. im sure someone here has made something like this or had a spike or something off the back of the axe that might have a couple tips they could share? I hate working on something to realize I went at it ass backwards, although that’s how I learn half the time these days lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 There are actually 3 ways of doing this.. The method of forging the hammer head after the fact is probably what I consider an advanced skill with fine hammer, hand and anvil control.. The easiest way is to forge the hammer aspect and then drift after the fact.. Don't form a neck like a modern hammer.. Leave this solid as they would have in the old days.. Ideally you want to slit the eye and drift it to size then run a mandrel into it to get the final size.. This needs to be done gradually.. 3rd is to do a combo of drift and hammer forge at the same time.. A little more complex.. What are you looking for in Eye wall thickness? They do make these for sale from the factor as a Roofers hatchet.. If you have the skills and a sledge hammer person any of the 3 methods would be pretty easy.. But trying to shoulder down the hammer aspect with the eye formed is going to be a problem otherwise.. With a 1X2X4" piece you have plenty of material there for the hammer aspect and a really nice cutting edge.. Did you have a pre made handle in mind.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Babcock Posted October 20, 2018 Author Share Posted October 20, 2018 Thanks for the advice, lol I only read it after I started again though lol. I made a little hot chisel and slit about 3/4-7/8 section on the back end and bent over to form the hammer. I have a power hammer so no striker, but between it and my 6lb mini sledge, I’ve gotten most of the hole drifted, seems to be going well. Im going to make a die with a small round on it, to form the neck of the hammer then I’ll just Forge it by hand from there, then draw out the axe face. At least that’s my plan lol. I’ll throw a pic up when I get it further along. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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