bryson489 Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Finally finished this one up and off to its new owner. It's about 220 layers of 15n20 and 1095. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavpilot2k Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Very nice! I am trying to muster the courage to attempt Damascus, but since it would be done by hand, without press or power hammer, I wonder if my forge welding skills are up to the task. I guess there's only one way to find out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryson489 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Share Posted September 19, 2018 Thankyou. All i can say is do it! It'll kick xxxx xxxx but it's so worth it getting that billet together. I wish i had some presses or power hammers so i could do larger billets. But until then i can usually get a knife and a bottle opener out of one billet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Nice knife Bryson! Nice leather work too. I'm going to have to learn how to do that soon. I second Bryson's encouragement Cavpilot. I have a forge press, but for the few pattern welded billets I've done, I always start out with the hammer on the anvil to get the layers to stick. Once they're all welded together well, you're good to go however you proceed from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyO Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Nice looking knife, but I really like the 1/2 elk skull on the sheath. I need to get away from my go to sheath style and start learning how to carve leather. You may have just motivated me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryson489 Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 Thanks guys. I usually try to keep the sheaths simple, unless requested otherwise. He showed a pic of what he wanted for a sheath and it was a pretty plain design with the fringe. It was my first time doing the fringe so i decided to add the skull to try dressing it up. Its definitely a fun process. As long as you have patience. That's why i stick to small peicess haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavpilot2k Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 I just got a shipment of 1084 and 15N20 from Aldo, and some Ferric Chloride. Let the Damascus-making begin! I think I may first try a billet out of some other scrap steel (an old saw blade and maybe lawnmower blade) just to practice the technique and identify problems before I do it with the "good stuff". I've also been thinking about attempting a cable damascus. Does anybody on here do that by hand? I saw a nice technique of hammering it into a V-swage to keep it compressed and prevent pancaking in the early stages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyO Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 6 hours ago, Cavpilot2k said: I've also been thinking about attempting a cable damascus. Does anybody on here do that by hand? The swages do help, but not necessary. At the beginning. go very slowly and strike softly until the steel feels like it's getting compressed into a solid mass and keep twisting the stock like you are trying to tighten the twist as you forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 leatherworker dot net is the iforgeiron of leather. Good group of folks over there and tons of experience that they like to share. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavpilot2k Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 13 hours ago, billyO said: The swages do help, but not necessary. At the beginning. go very slowly and strike softly until the steel feels like it's getting compressed into a solid mass and keep twisting the stock like you are trying to tighten the twist as you forge. Does it help at all to soak the cable (assuming it is used) in solvent of some kind to get grease/oil/junk out of the nooks and crannies, since you can't just grind/sand it clean like normal damascus layers? Or does all that stuff just burn off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 If it's just oil, grease, etc. it'll flux the cable, leave it. However if it's been dragged through: mud, sand, etc. It'll probably be okay, do a test piece and see. What you REALLY have to watch for is a plastic stress strand, those can burn off in an ugly toxic manner. And some steel stress strands are galvanized. Stress strands are easily visible in the ends of cut cable so eyeball it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavpilot2k Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Thanks for the tip, Frosty, I'll keep an eye out for stress strands. Not something I had even considered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 I've forged welded some larger greasy cable. The grease burns out and is a mess but it welded up fine. Get it as clean as you can and go from there. I'd recommend a respirator until the nasties are gone. And keep it hot, keep it clean and fluxed. And keep twisting it tight until its solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyO Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 I'll agree with both of the above, but I've also had a failure, so I try to clean the steel as much as possible first. Even if it doesn't matter, I feel the less nasties I burn up in the forge, the time spent doing this isn't wasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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