racer3j Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 (edited) Some of you may recall that I have an unused 88.9-1 3/4 CW Vaughan & Brooks Blacksmith's Anvil. I haven't even cleaned out the hardie(y). There are no hammer wounds on the face or anywhere. When I was racing(retired in 1999 from winged sprint cars) I had two multi-level compression fracture injuries. I have had surgery and every kind of big needle and nerve burning known to man- still have severe pain, all day, everyday. As the help on stands came in I started evaluating some realistic facts. There was a time, even after those injuries that I could pick up and walk around with 175 pounds of anvil, calf, pig,dog,injured teenager etc. No more. My arms will do it but my spine won't. I have a little home and a 2 1/2 car garage. To forge, I will have to move the anvil and forge out on my driveway. I noted that the sample pictures so kindly posted did not include mobility features. So, I am thinking of selling the V & B and buying a 70 # Carroll Wide Face. I realize that these have significant design features for farriers. But the model I am thinking of appears to have enough flat surface to do knife,chisel, plane iron.forging.( I might be able to muscle around the 122# model) I know I am sitting here with a $600+ anvil that is fine quality and a true blacksmith's anvil. ASSUMING that a Carroll is good material, design and execution, though farrier oriented, WHAT WOULD YOU DO???? The big guy might end up on the "tailgate." And, I would try to find the closest Carroll seller to minimize freight. At my age and handicap( hardly counting wrecked humeri and cuffs R & L) I know that if I keep the V & B, I won't be wishing for more anvil. A large Bowie sized knife, or three inch wide slick, or multi-layer forge welded similar implements would be as big as I am going. THANK YOU FOR STICKING WITH THIS LONG POST AND QUESTION!! Your new, ignorant buddy, jet/mike Edited June 2, 2008 by racer3j Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Don't feel like the Lone Range. I got a bad back and just can't stand at the anvil like I used to either. I think I would keep the big boy and try to come up with a way to move it. Nothing is sweeter then forging on good sized anvil. Mobility problems and a big anvil are not impossible to over come. With my pinched nerves I have been looking at building a small power hammer so I don't have to swing a hammer so much. Treadle hammers are out since I now only have one good leg to stand on so I guess that's why God gave us brains so we don't have to use our backs so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skunkriv Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 (edited) Mike, I am 45 mi east of Des Moines and just off of 80. If I am close enough we can whip something up in my shop so you can wheel out your "good" anvil and work. Message me and we'll work something out. Come up and visit me at the state fair at Pioneer Hall. Edited June 2, 2008 by skunkriv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Mike, think about something as simple as 3 trailer jacks, like you used on the tongue of the car hauler. Crank the wheel of the jack onto the ground to lift the load, and then just push. When it is place, crank the wheel back up lowering the load and making everything stable again. Works on anvils, work tables etc. Lot's of ways to solve the problem(s), all you really have to do is swallow hard, and ask for ideas. The fine folks on IForgeIron can come up with something. They are blacksmiths after all (grin). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Mike, I don't know about how screened your driveway is, or what sort of neighbourhood you have, but I think that 175lb of anvil + say 200lb of sand (sandbox stand) wouldn't grow legs very fast... especially if you could shroud it with bins or cars or something. Besides, garages aren't actually designed to keep cars you know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 I like that trailer jack idea and if you a nice neighborhood and can leave it outside you can always put a portable doghouse on top of it and make your forge look like a BBQ so it blends in with what it ain't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete46 Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 AS [i think Glenn said] ALL THESE YEARS U BEEN PICK'N UP ! START PUSH'N DOWN i.e the dolly principal. I'M NOT SAY'N USE A DOLLY ; TRY A CARRAGE W/DOLLY TYPE WHEELS ON ONE END AND REGULAR WHEELS ON THE OTHER! I HOPE THIS HELPS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Another thought is putting receiver tubes in the anvil mount, not the 2" ones but smaller, say 1 1/4" sq so 1" sq will socket into them. Then mount a couple wheel barrow wheels on the 1"sq. Then put a large lag screw ring on the other end so you can hook into it with a version of a trailer dolly. Easy mobility. The same two wheelbarrow wheels and trailer dolly will move the forge and every other heavy item in the garage/smithy. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 (edited) I think someone, maybe it was Hofi, posted a wheeled stand once on here. The wheels were mounted just above the ground on two legs, the other leg had a "receiver" for a piece of pipe mounted on it. In essence, it was a dolly stand. Solid when sitting still. Insert pipe, lift up using the lever you just inserted, and roll wherever you want it. Remove handle (the lever) and forge away. I'll see if I can find it and post a link. Here it is, it is a vise stand, but same principle can be used. http://www.iforgeiron.com/blueprints/blueprints-1000/bp1009-.php Edited June 3, 2008 by keykeeper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nett Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 (edited) Uri Hofi's leg vice is moved that way. BP1009 Post Vise Edited June 3, 2008 by nett I is using good grammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I'm in the same boat - my 250 was never a piece of cake but I could hook my arms under each end and walk off with it. I don't even try anymore because I don't want my back blown anymore than it is. That being said, I'd keep the heavier anvil and figure out a good way to move it. Two wheel dolly comes to my mind with a portable block for a stand. You will likely regret going to the smaller anvil at some point in the future but that's just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 An engine hoist is another alternative. Mr Hofi's set up is similar to what I was talking about except the wheels can be used on more than one piece of equipment. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYBOY Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Some of the larger welders Ive worked with had stationary wheels on the back with free moving swiveling wheels on the front that would "lock" into position..May want to think about something like that..I fabed some like that on a heavy work table once.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayco Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Mike, if I had to move the anvil,forge,post vise, etc, out of the garage and back inside each time I used them,........I'm thinking I would put everything on a trailer Just one of those utility trailers everyone pulls behind their pickups. Or, you could make your own......... Kinda like a mini 'shop on wheels'.........with all the heavy stuff mounted securely. Who knows.....you might want to go somewhere and do a demo sometime. With a shop on wheels you could do that. By the way, I avoid all the heavy lifting I can........my back's not that good either. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Pook Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 My Anvil is secured on a round stump, I just slightly tip it and roll it where I need to. Its just over 200lbs so not to heavy to move that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy seale Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 what i wouldn't give fer at-vise and all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 When I used to have to carry my anvil and tools up from out of the basement, across the kitchen and out the back door to the tree. it got old real quick. So I bought an anvil cheap that had the heel broken off but a nice face and horn and I left it out under the tree chained to a large stump. We had cars, bikes and lawnmowers stolen from our backyard, (inner city Columbus OH); but not the anvil... There is one fellow who leaves his anvil out; but has a wheeled dog house he covers it with when done. protects it in more than one way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I'm in the same boat - my 250 was never a piece of cake but I could hook my arms under each end and walk off with it. I don't think I could lift a 250lb anvil on my best day, I'd certainly hate to rupture anything trying it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 An engine hoist is another alternative. I used an engine hoist to place my new Nimba. Very useful item for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I don't think I could lift a 250lb anvil on my best day, I'd certainly hate to rupture anything trying it! I'm too old now (50) but could walk around the shop with my 250 lb anvil in my arms while in my mid 30's. It was stupid to do but I was weight lifting at the time and still thought I was ten foot tall and bullet proof......it's much better to use two people or a hoist. Any heavy or out of position lifting can blow your back, which can cripple a person for life as some folks have already learned. (However, I still say keep the bigger anvil and figure out a way to transport it - a 70 lb anvil can blow your back as easily as a big one and may not be as good to work on.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 (edited) Mike, I have been thinking about your anvil stand dilemma, needing wheels and all. I think I have a solution, although someone may have already came up with something like this. Actually, I saw something similar to this in an office today, and I know jacks were suggested earlier. You need wheels to move it when needed, right? How about a 4 legged stand, with a floating "shelf" on the bottom? The 4 legs would bear the weight of the anvil shelf ( I'm thinking heavy plate). On the bottom of the floating shelf, 4 caster wheels (Harbor freight, they're cheap there) maybe 2 fixed, 2 that swivel to steer with. the corners of the floating shelf would merely be square tubing that the 4 legs of the stand itself would slide in, rather tightly fit, i think. In the middle of the shelf, mount a bottle jack. Engage jack up, anvil and stand goes up, allowing wheels to carry the load. push and steer to where you want it. Lower jack, anvil and stand are firmly planted on ground, held firmly by the anvil weight itself, the stand weight, tools, etc. Of course, the legs would have to be tied in well to the anvil shelf, as you couldn't angle the legs for stability. I'm not good at sketching, but could probably come up with something, if need be. I think something like this would also lend itself to plenty of area to add on hammer and tong holders, punch holders, etc. Just an idea, may or may not work, just trying to help. edit: Ok, I made a little drawing using paint. Wish I could get the hang of sketchup! Of course, anything anyone could build even similar to this would look better than this piddly little drawing, but I hope you can get the idea I'm trying to convey. Similar to rthibeau's forklift tine stand, except squared up a little more. Edited June 13, 2008 by keykeeper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 I agree with everyone who said keep the large anvil. There are many, many ways to mount wheels on the anvil stand,,,,only a few have been mentioned so far. If you have solved the problem with mobility, let us know......if you haven't, post a photo of your anvil and stand and I'll whip up a few sketches for you to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer3j Posted June 13, 2008 Author Share Posted June 13, 2008 Thanks for sticking with me. This weekend I am going to build one of the trapezoidal stands I have seen pictured. I'll use the 2 x 12 frame and then the ply sides, glued and screwed. Then to HF to check casters. I bought some from Grizzly awhile back that were very hard urethane, had lots of weight capacity and the swivel ones had dual locks. Then, the sand and I should be ok. I also figured out that my anvil would be around $1200 plus shipping based on what Centaur carries. Assuming that the V & B anvils walk the dollar walk, it would be hard to get something as satisfactory. So, the H-Duty stand and wheels and just enjoy what I have.jet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 You may want to rethink the anvil stand design. Where are you going to put your feet if you step up close to the anvil? There is currently another thread that suggests that for best results, the weight should be in the anvil, not the stand. Metal wheels may be a better choice as urethane wheels roll nice, but when left in one place with the weight of the load, they may flatten out on the bottom side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Glenn: That's why I came up with what I did. The wheels bear no weight until needed for movement of the stand. That and no chance of movement when working, if the stand is built heavy and structurally sound. I got the idea from a typewriter stand I saw today, the four legs held the weight until the stand needs to be moved. Then the wheels aided the movement. Pretty cool idea, I thought. Still room to slide a foot in close, if need be, also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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