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Peter wright anvil should I buy?


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Someone is selling this peter Wright anvil. Its gonna be my first anvil and i currently just got a piece of railroad track a few days ago that I'm currently making a stand for. I'm from Nevada and he/she is asking for $500 for it. Should I consider this anvil or should just finish my stand and wait for something better. 

It's about a 45 min drive. I just wanna know if it's worth to make the drive.

Thanks! If you guys could tell me more about the anvil it would be great!

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That anvils is post 1910 and originally weighed 152lbs. It’s not in the best shape but far from the worst and it looks like it’s got something wedged in the pritchel hole. I don’t know the market in your neck of the woods and how often anvils come available. It all comes down to how bad you want a “real” anvil. I’d start the haggling fairly low. 

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That is pretty dang well priced for here in Las Vegas, I can't imagine that up in Reno it's much different. If you've got the money, you should go for it. I'd recommend starting haggling around 350 or 400$. Peter Wright is a really expensive anvil brand though, so if you are ok with a slightly less quality anvil, you could probably find a much cheaper one that weighs about the same. I personally wouldn't go for it, because I'm content with having an anvil like a Fischer or a Colombian which gets the job done well enough. However, if you really need that top 1% anvil quality, a Wright anvil in that condition is a steal.

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Peter Wright’s are good anvils but not necessarily the best. All the old name brand anvils are good. Some Peter Wright’s are better than some Hay-buddens. Some H-Bs are better than some Trentons and some Trenton’s are better than some PWs. For the most part it comes down to the specific anvil. If you go check it out and it’s got good rebound all over the face, you like it and are comfortable with the price then jump on it. As long as it’s a responsive anvil, there’s a whole lot of work that can be done on it just as it is. Later on it, after significant use, you can dress the edges to what you’ve decided you need. 

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112 + 28 + 18?  158 pounds. +/-  A great size for a shop anvil and it's in good condition.  Do the ring and ball bearing test; but in your area $2 to $3 a pound would be a pretty good deal.  I am anviled up; but I'd still get it at US$2 but pass at higher.  If I had no anvil $3 might be reasonable.

Peter Wrights were one of the most popular brands of anvils here in "the day" but not what I'd call a top end anvil.  Good, dependable, a "daily driver" anvil not a Maserati; I own and regularly use a couple of them: 112# and 165#.  Well worth owning.

One haggling method is to see if they have any tools to throw in on the deal; getting started; a few tongs, hammers, hardy tools can be a great step forward...

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23 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

112 + 28 + 18?  158 pounds. 

Not sure how I came up with 152lbs. My internal calculator might be on the frits. 

 

When you find an anvil you think you might want you can’t hesitate. Don’t give other people the chance to buy it out from underneath you. 

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The half life of a good anvil at a good price tends to be in hours around most places I have lived.  Why I don't start looking till I have money in hand for one...

Even back in the early 1980's I was know to call my boss and tell him I'd be in late as I was going to look at an anvil or swageblock...

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With the current TV programs that deal with smithing we are in the middle of the biggest boom in blacksmithing equipment sales I've seen in the 37 years I've been involved in the craft.  I live in constant terror that my wife will find this out and sell off my shop while I'm down here working in the next country over...

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If I find an anvil I like, I tell the person I’m en route ready to buy but I’d like to give it the once over in person before I hand over payment. That doesn’t mean I’m willing to pay asking price or that I’m even going to buy it. I’ve walked away from lots of anvils after politely explaining that what they are selling is very nice but it wouldn’t work for me. I’ll also always point out the tiniest imperfection or possible reason I might have a problem with it if the negotiations aren’t going my way. Sometime you talk them down a long ways. Sometimes you don’t and leave empty handed. Sometimes you’re opening the door of your truck when they realized that cash in hand sounds pretty good. When pointing out problems, always always always do this politely. You don’t want to insult the seller by bad mouthing what you’re trying to buy. Also, always go with cash. Hide it in your your truck if you’ve got any reservations upon arrival but folding money gets you deals a check won’t. 

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Thanks again for the advice. I just get a little nervous dropping some much cash on something I don't have too much knowledge of. I do appreciate all the help from all the previous post and you guys. I'll keep reading to be better inform next time something comes up. 

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