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I need to build two or three anvil stands. One quite heavy duty for my V & B 89 kg and then a couple more for nice rail anvils. I need to kill the ring on the V & B- it is one xxxx of a bell. The simpler the better.-- An aside, is R. Price still selling the T-Rex line? Sent a couple of emails with no result.jet

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Larrynjr build a wooden anvil stand for his new anvil. Check here for details

There has been several discussions on killing the ring of an anvil. Caulk, sand, chain, magnets,different methods of attachment, etc have been suggested. Use the search engine (top of the forum page in the green bar) or the IForgeIron Archive (bottom of the forum page in the green bar) to your advantage.

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I'm really happy with how both my stands kill the ring of my anvils. both of them were fairly easy to make. the one on the mousehole is stacked 2x10s and isnt quite as stable as the wide footprint of the hay budden stand. the hay budden stand is hollow but still feels solid. its made from 2x10s also with the sides made from 3/4" plywood. I thought I might add silicone under the anvils if the still rang, but after mounting them I havent had any problems so I didn't bother with it.

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I have made two anvil stands from 2x8 pine and 3/8" plywood. I also use a chain wrap to hold down my 167# German but only one wrap. I put 3/8" lag bolts with sheetmetal washers through the links on all four sides and just screwed them down. I get minimal ring from the anvil. On my 100# TFS I just set the anvil down between two half moon lugs without the chains. It stays in place fairly well and does not ring appreciably but it is a tight fit. You will notice I leave a bit of shelf at the ends of the anvil to put hammers and tongs. When you get to be my age, you need to always put things in the same place or you never find them again!

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Edited by Quenchcrack
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i built mine from a 8" 14" chunk of solid Koa wood, and i had to handsaw both ends square i then slapped on a bunch of 2x4's to bulk it up and give it a wider footprint and it has been working great, not sure where you would find koa wood in the upper 49 though.

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I used the blueprint plans as my guide and basically made a wooden box then filled it with sand. I put a piece of plywood that was just slightly smaller than the interior of the box under the anvil then covered the base with additional sand. There is almost zero ring even when I hammer out at the tip of the horn.

For me it's a great alternative to a hard wood stump. Those are very hard to come by here in Eastern Wa.

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Hardwood stump is not neccessary, softwood works as can be seen by all the softwood built up stands.

Out here *any* wood in large size is hard to find. I'm using old bridge timber to hold up my anvils. with the biggest chunk, Appx 8'x2'x1.5' supporting both the 515# and 410#, one at either end.

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I'm kinda surprised you can't find a stump out in eastern washington acutally. I managed to find several in downtown portland. They cost me 10 bucks each, but 10 bucks for a 4 foot log 16 inches across is a pretty good deal imo.

I contacted a place that deals in firewood. They were very nice and intrigued by what I had planned. They were a big help.

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what i found worked reasonably well was to take pieces of lumber, for me it was 2X6 cut them to the length you want then drill bolt holes through and sandwitch them together to the size you want with a couple of pieces of ten guage or heavyer steel plate, this has worked quite well for my 250lb anvil for a few years now and their is now signe of it braking down.

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I guess it wasn't so much hard to find a stump as I didn't look very hard for one because of my cement shop floor. I didn't want to have to try to cut the stump so that it was level perpendicular to the floor or bust a hole in the cement to plant a stump / log into the ground for the anvil.

I like the box and sand method, it also gives me something non flammable for hot steel to land on instead of a wood surface.

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If you're using a round of wood on a hard floor you can keep it from walking on you by cupping the underside a little. It won't make it go away completely but will hold it to a minimum.

A thin coat silicone calking wiped on a steel stand's feet will keep it from walking on a hard floor.

Frosty

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd go with "whatever you have", though with treasted you may want to cover the part exposed with a sacrificial untreated piece of plywood or lumber if you are prone to dropping hot metal on it just to avoid the smoke from treated lumber. If you make a wooden outline to drop the anvil inside for the top of it you can kill two birds with one stone...

One thing I have noticed is: the larger the anvil the less fussy it is about mounting. My 500#'r doesn't seem to notice mounting issues like the 91#'r does!

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I guess it wasn't so much hard to find a stump as I didn't look very hard for one because of my cement shop floor. I didn't want to have to try to cut the stump so that it was level perpendicular to the floor or bust a hole in the cement to plant a stump / log into the ground for the anvil.

I like the box and sand method, it also gives me something non flammable for hot steel to land on instead of a wood surface.

Larry, did you noticed any change in the rebound of your anvil since you have put it in your sand box (maybe you haven't try it any other way before!) ? I am afraid the sand could absorb some of the energy of the hit?
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