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1 1/2 tongs beginner stock


Shawn S

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1 1/2 square,   Thank you for the point towards the pdf. I have seen that and have it saved to my phone but I don’t know how to figure up the best size to start with.   I will just fumble my way through it,  I have some 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 1045 the I will see what happens.

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Inch

Inch,  all but one of the people that replied are from the States,   But I am sorry to make you guys have to assume.  I was typing with one hand while rocking my 2 month old daughter.

IFI has over 47,000 members from over 150 countries, and many of them read things and do not post. Some may not read this for months.  we try to post for everyone

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However people reading this may be all over the globe---we've had over 100 countries participate here on the World Wide Web!  Remember an answer to your question may be written for people all over the world and so not be totally specific to your question.  You will also see safety info posted repeatedly as we don't want folks making the same mistakes as we have done.

Don't take it personally if something you well know gets "told" to you; just say to yourself---they wrote that to the new kid who's never lit a match before and knows nothing about how fire works and is reading this thread...

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Mr Powers thank you for the boop on the back of the head and the better way of thinking about the responses and the possible reasons for the type of replies.  It is so easy to take things wrongly on the internet and all types of social media.    I do want to know what a Barley corn is lol.  

 

I know now there is always a lot to learn from trial and error and mistakes however when I am working I work 7 days a week an average of 70-80 hours a week in a steel mill and I have 4 young kids.  The point being is that when I do have time to forge and want to be around the heat after being in the mill all day I only have only a limited amount of time.  Anything that I can do to make it successful and not waste 4 hours on a failure makes the experience more enjoyable.  As of right now I am off work after having both hips operated on and can only manage to stand for a little while so I guess the same thing applies.  I do a lot of ready on this site and think I have watched every video on YouTube and appreciate every bit of knowledge you guys put out there for those of us that are new to the hobby.   I do realize that you have all this experience because you have all gone through the trial and error and mistakes that many of use are trying to get around.

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You can forge sitting in a chair; in fact German smiths like to use a powerhammer sitting in a chair..  Almost anything suggested as good for a demo can be done in a limited amount of forge time. I've forged arrowheads sitting in a chair with a coal forge---a swivel chair is great for moving from the forge to the anvil by just turning in place.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Barleycorn may refer to:

A grain of barley

Barleycorn (unit) a unit of length, equal to one third of an inch"

oxford dictionaries:  "To a European, corn covers all the cereal crops - wheat, barley, oat, and so on."  

What we in the USA call corn is called Maize in Europe.  We got the change from originally calling it "Indian Corn" and gradually skipping the first part.

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sometimes you need to know about different measures, at my place we sometimes make historical replicas for museums and others so we need to know about the Queen anne wine gallon, the bushel, we just made a half bushel vessel many different inches ( the US uses 2 different ones at the moment ) and the last time the inch was changed here and in the US was within my lifetime, one of us gained a millionth and the other one lost a millionth to make them the same as the international standard.

inches were based on a number of barley corns originally and varied quite a bit hence napoleon was thought to be short but was exactly the same height as wellington but at the time french inches were bigger so less inches

anyway I hope you have a speedy recovery and also get to spend time on here to learn lots

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17 hours ago, Shawn S said:

1 1/2 square,   Thank you for the point towards the pdf. I have seen that and have it saved to my phone but I don’t know how to figure up the best size to start with.   I will just fumble my way through it,  I have some 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 1045 the I will see what happens.

Shawn, it mostly depends on the type of steel and whether you want robust tongs or gracile. Also whether or not you will be using a power hammer, press or hand hammer. I have made tongs for holding 1 1/2" square stock from 5/8" round 5160. If I were going to use mild I would want them to be a lot beefier and in that case I might start with 3/4" square stock. The 1045 water hardening you mention should be plenty tough so you can afford to trim weight where you can. 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" is way more than enough material and if you are hand hammer will give you a bit of a workout!

 

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1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

(When I was forging some 2.5" sq stock using a good size powerhammer, I used a piece of 1" stock welded to it instead of tongs.)

This is a good tip Shawn but some of us do this with smaller stock, I usually weld tongs to anything 3/4" or larger. It REALLY saves your grippin muscles. 

If you haven't noticed yet we'll start funnin at the drop of a hat.

Frosty The Lucky.

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3/4” square mild steel will be plenty stout enough. I prefer to make most of my tong from 3/8”x1” mild steel or 3/4” round sucker rod. How are you going to be using the 1.5” material, on a power hammer, with a striker or solo on the anvil? What are you wanting to make? Those sorts of things help decide how robust these tongs need to be. I’d save the 1045 for other projects. 

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