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Thoughts on hand crank blowers


blackfox

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Hey guys, noob here. . .  looking to get my first forge.  I was going to build a propane forge first, and I have started collecting components for it but I found a nice champion forge and hand crank blower setup, so it got me thinking about it.   I am curious if you could share your experience with me?  Are hand crank blowers a pain?  do they have any unique benefits beyond no electric required?  good or bad choice for a beginner?  Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

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A good hand cranked blower* is a joy to use, provided you are forging either hard lump charcoal or bituminous coal.  If you have anthracite coal you may find it hard to keep your forge lit as that coal seems to prefer a more continuous air blast.  One of the key advantages other than not needing electricity and the minor noise you get from some electric blower (or the amazing obnoxious noise you get from a shop vac or leaf blower) is that for a noob you are a bit less likely to run through coal as quickly.  No forgetting to turn down the air when you are hammering...  Another is that, at least in my experience, you are less likely to burn up your metal, though you certainly still can if you get carried away.  I've found it also helps me to remember to soak a "hopefully to be forge welded" piece of stock in a low air atmosphere before I go for a forge weld, as I juggle tongs, hammer and crank to get everything ready at once.

*your hand cranked blower should continue to rotate after being brought up to speed at least one full rotation after you let the handle go.

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Only complaint I have is the dang things are all set up for lefties...

as I grew up as a mechanic I am prety dexterous with my off (tong) hand and it just seems odd to crank with my off tong hand and manipulate the stock with my hammer hand. 

Btw, chain saw bar oil in an old style oil can is all you need to provide oil for most of them

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Wow!  Thankyou all for your quick replies and incite.  It’s very helpful and gives me more confidence that a crank blower is a good option for a beginner hobbyist like me. Really appreciate all your thoughts guys!  

The forge I am going to look at soon is a champion 142 forge and my best guess I think champion eureka 140 blower mounted to the forge (not free standing) but I’m not 100 % on the blower model.   I don’t think is a large blower like the 400.  So that may not be ideal.

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If it's a good deal and you have the money get it.  Even if you move to propane later on you will value having the ability to use a coal fire.  There are some things a coal forever can do that a propane one cannot.  The reverse is true as well... But I think everyone should know how to use a coal forge.

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1 hour ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

Agreed... and every Champion blower I have used puts out ample air, provided it's in good shape and lubricated properly.

Good to hear...

 

 

21 hours ago, Lou L said:

If it's a good deal and you have the money get it.

Not sure if it was a good deal but I did pick it up ... I got excited and went for it.   I will share pics soon

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The forge pan and tuyere are in great shape, no cracks or deformations.  The entire unit appears to be original.  Clinker breaker, crank, down tube and ash dump gate are there.  The blower works. Air flow seemed to be good, but I have no reference.  The crank axle is pretty loose from wear.  Should probably be bushed.  The crank handle  turns about 2 times upon release from what feels like a reasonable cranking speed (my no experience estimate). This is before taking it apart to inspect, clean and lube.  But I presume this was done by PO prior to sale.  It also came with a hood that needs to be reshaped to fit.  That was a plus in my book.  Now I need some coal ! What do you guys think?  

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That's a nice little setup you have there.  You got everything but the fire.  I'd suggest that, if the blower handle turns smoothly and continues turning a reception after you stop, don't do a thing to take it apart.  Also don't add a ton of oil.  Everyone add half a quart when they get their first... It will end up leaving on the floor.  Just add it by the drops when you use it.  Congrats.

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Nice forge, good score. Blowers all have some lash, call it slop in the shafts, gears, etc. all normal they aren't watches. If the handle will make two turns after you let go and it doesn't rattle do NOT take it apart to fix up. It ain't broken don't fix it! :o And I highly doubt the seller took it apart to tune before selling it.

As Lou says, there appears to be a oil level plug in the side. It isn't! It takes a little more than a quart to bring my Champion 400 blower to the level I can stick my pinky finger in the hole and touch oil. If you do that you'll find out how much of your shop floor that much oil will cover.

At the beginning of each session gently give it a turn or two while dripping a FEW drops of oil in the top oil point. Dripping it with a second or so between drops spreads it over of the large gear farther from where it'll smear itself on the second gear and so forth, even down to the bronze bushings. There is another oil point on the extended end of a shaft, give it a couple drops. Seriously it doesn't take much and it isn't picky about what kind of oil you use. These old machines were well built and durable. There was no telling what someone on a farm, ranch, pitching rivets on a high rise, where ever was going to come up with for lube. I'll bet they are perfectly happy with a little hot bacon grease for lube.

I use the same oil mix in my blower as I use in my Little Giant power hammer, chain saw bar oil with about a cup of Duralube per gallon. It's sticky oil so it doesn't sling off a chain saw chain so easily and it's a very good lube. My Little Giant  isn't dripping oil nor does it sling oil around the shop, it only needs a few drops in the oil points and a small squirt in the main bearing oilers. It's thick sticky slippery oil, it doesn't need much. 

Nah, I'm not suggesting you go out and buy a jug of chainsaw bar oil, just don't get carried away a little will work as well as a lot and it won't leak out all over the floor. If you can still find the old school motor cycle chain oil it'd be perfect but I think it's all aerosol spray now so. . . <sigh>

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thanks Lou, IronDragon, and Frosty !

I will take your collective advice and use it as is, and lube minimally as you described.  

This forge should get me going and learning just fine.

now the search for Bituminous near me, I have a lead....

I’m excited for my first fire !

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A lot of old machinery has what we would call "flow through oiling" and "oiler" was a fairly common job description.  (In an early 1900's kids book where they build an aeroplane they have a position for the person who oiled the engine during flight!)

You should find good coal in your area fairly easily; check with the local ABANA affiliate as they should know where to get good blacksmithing coal and they often will do group buys to get a traincar or dumptruck load brought in for the group.

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8 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

You should find good coal in your area fairly easily

Thanks Thomas !  Turns out I found a place that sells bituminous by the bag 10 minutes from my work !  I called them today but no answer.  Try again tomorrow or just go there to get details on quantity and pricing.  If this works out it would be so convenient.

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Now is that coal great Bituminous coal for blacksmithing or terrible Bituminous coal for blacksmithing?

Your local group could probably tell you.  "Bituminous coal" does not necessarily mean "Great Blacksmithing Coal" .

Do you have enough experience to test a bag and know if it's the good, the bad or the ugly?

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Nope ... I have zero experience this coal was recommended to me by a hobby blacksmith I spoke with the same day I got the forge.  He raved about this coal.  But honestly I don’t know what to look for.  Just going on his recommendation.

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