Patina and cold chemical application for mild steel

[Talitha Davis]

Hello, I am a bit new to the forum but as much of my searches led me here, I figured I would go ahead and give this a go.

I am a metal sculptor who words with mild steel 9 and 6 Gage wire. I've been looking into ways to color my sculptures that are more natural and diverse than just rattlecans, but that are also affordable. As a student I can afford many of the premade solutions and chemical collerants available online. Because of what I make and how I make it a lot of traditional methods don't work for me.

I'm looking for advice on best ways to clean, prime and paint my works. I've been researching a lot via the book "Patina" by Matthew Runfola, and was wondering what are going to be the most cost effective ways to prepp and paint my artworks. 

Since my artworks are welded wire, cleaning is difficult, wire brushing doesn't always cover every nook and cranny while paint primers often are costly and take a large amount to fully coat. My sculptures tend toy be pretty big as well, from 4 to 6 feet so acid baths aren't resonable.

 I have considered just hand wiping done with acetone. Or possibly investing in a sand blaster, but again, am worried about cost and efficiency. 

 

For many coloration options due to the size methods such as eletroplating and chemical baths are again out of the question due to cost. Thus I am mainly looking into suggestions for best cold wipe on or spray on chemical processes. I have access to some heat oxidation options as well, but so far cold brush and spray on application seem the best fit.  

Does anyone have any formulas for various cold process using things like bismuth, ferric nitrate, copper sulfates, ect? I want to do colors like reds, yellows, greens, browns, etc. Any advice on brands, shopping places, and so on are greatly appreciated. 

 

I have included pictures of my work to give idea of size/ problems I'm working around.

 

Thanks so much for any help!!!!

 

Background: I know some basics from other forums of what chemicals do which colors and cheap ways to get some chemicals, like root killer and drain solution for copper sulfate and such. Biggest issue is formulas and amounts/ application advice. 

[Steve Sells]

you are aware that what is available in  Spain is not the same as what is available in Thailand ? 

 

[TwistedCustoms]

Cost and efficiency are relative. How many pieces approx. the size of your elephant are you producing? One a month, two hundred a week? The methods you have eliminated based on cost are high on the list for efficient volume and are going to cost less and give better results in the long run. Acid bath followed by dip priming would be the most efficient but only at the level of small scale manufacturing. If your only producing one or two pieces a month you aren't likely to improve on hand sanding and spray cans.

  If you go the chemical coloring or heat/flame coloring rout you will still have to seal the piece with a clear coat, lacquer or polyurethane. If not you will lose your patina in short order and clear coating may cost as much as primer and color paint.

   One other thing to consider. As an artist, at what point do you consider your artistic expression to be over. What I mean is, do you need to control every step of every process in order for this to be "your baby", or when your done with the form work could you hand it over to someone else and still call it your own. The reason I mention this is because if you produce enough volume to make it worth someone's time, but not enough to invest in your own powder coat booth or spray booth then taking it to someone else may be the way to go. An auto body shop with a spray booth could be an option. It will be easier to talk to someone in a small auto body shop than a huge manufacturing facility that probably wont help you anyway. The small business owner who needs to stay busy to make the payments on his own newly purchased equipment could be your friend. If it works out you can say "make the elephant green and the cow purple" and then walk away. You maintain artistic control without the headaches. I'm not trying to discourage your efforts to learn for yourself the best ways to do this. If it is art for arts sake then by all means, bleed for your art! If money is involved in the decision making process as you stated in your post then concessions must be made. Good luck!

 Good looking elephant too!!!

[Talitha Davis]

Thank you so much for you input!  getting  it powder coated at a local store is a really good idea. I am new into the whole selling my art so it's all a learning process for me. 

Currently I am doing larger scale for local public art works, looking to do smaller scale for public sale at farmers markets and online in the future. Long term I'm doing welding for a living and having my art as my passion/ hobby/ small side business. 

 

Until I am more financially stable and no longer in school looking into the cheaper but decent quailty for the small amount of customers that I have. Thank you so much for your advice!

[Frosty]

Unless you're going have a studio running to production then having it done makes more sense unless the pieces are small, table lamp and smaller. If you can't soak it in a bath tub then finishing will take space and equipment not to mention time. Do you want to make art, a living or both? They're not mutually exclusive but you have personal economics to consider. The only thing that is really yours is your time. You can trade it well or be penny wise and dollar foolish. Trying to maintain control of every aspect only makes sense if that is what you get paid for. What I usually see is a person who is good at making something and while they're good at sanding, cleaning and finishing those are jobs for a shop hand. It doesn't rise to the level of artist so don't spend your time on lesser things . 

Carry the logic a bit farther and do you need to invest so much money and studio space for a finishing shop at all? If you subcontract the aspects that don't really require your brand of artistry you can change them at will and open different markets. Powder coating for more realistic colored elephants, or pastel nursery elephants. The elementary school playground elephants get painted with mops or thrown paint rags. Then off to the chrome shop for the swanky CEO's office. etc. 

That's just a wordier way of saying what Twisted Custom said.

Nice elephant. It should be in party colors, it's dancing isn't it? It looks happy. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Whiskeymike]

Do you happen to have access to a good pressure washer?  Good defined as 2.7 gallons per minute or more.  3 gpm or more is better.  If so, Northern tool and others have a sand blasting add on that attaches and uses regular sand.  It can be done in the grass and as long as it doesn’t have bad toxic coatings, it’s pretty safe. You can also use a pressure washer with a degreaser and this may be plenty if you don’t have rust or scale to remove.

as mentioned, outsourcing it to someone is a great path.  If you find a powder coater that will work with you, they sandblast the parts as part of the process.  You’ll be amazed at the colors and finishes available.  It can be surprisingly economical (you might find someone to do the elephant for $50-$75, especially if you are flexible so they fit it in when there is excess room in the oven..  It’s also very durable for outside use.(3-7 years of rust/UV protection)  Might be a bit tricky doing it with the wire, but if you can rattle an it, you can powder coat it.

best of luck.