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I Forge Iron

6" Post Vise Find


OcHavac

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Well I just picked up a 6" post vise for $100 dollars. The spring is missing (no big deal in my book), the vise is currently frozen ( dont know the condition of the screw), and there is a dent in the gear box housing.  How concerning is the dent in the housing?

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As postvises don't have gear boxes I wouldn't worry about a detent in one.

Do you mean the screwbox or the cheeks of the pivot support for the moving leg?  If you mean the gap where the pivot support is forge welded to the stationary leg; it depends on how well the rest of the weld is.  If it's good and solid, not an issue. If it's getting ready to come apart, it will need to be welded back on---probably with an arc welder. However no harm in using it till it falls off---may take another 100 years and so not be your problem.

The frozen screw is the worrisome part. Start flooding it with the best penetrating oil you can get and letting it soak in for weeks if necessary.  If you can't get it to come free; you might drill down from the center of the knob on the screwbox till you get to the gap between it and the end of the screw and start flooding penetrating oil from that direction too.  (A neat upgrade is to later install a zerk in that hole and be able to lubricate the screw/screwbox from the aft end, pushing crud out of the system!)

Now if you mean a dent in the screwbox please post a clear pictures of it so we can see if it will be an issue.

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OUCH you do have a MAJOR problem there. It looks like the end of the screw is popping through in that one spot and just penetrating oil will probably not be enough.  (But try it that way first and no heavy blows trying to turn it as you don't want to break the screw!)

Now the good news is you don't need the entire screwbox.   As I am a user rather than a collector I might go for extreme measures to get it back in USING condition: WARNING WARNING DANGER DANGER DR SMITH DR SMITH! That is a really nice finial on that screw box but if you want to try to make it usable again what I would try---after seeing if i could get it free by soaking it in oil---would be to saw off the end if the screwbox---portaband if possible because if it works you could then braze it back together! I see a horizontal mark on both sides of the dent about 2/3 rds the way up from the bottom of the finial to the bottom of the area where the screw is protruding. That is where I would saw and then use a torch and tools to try to pry the dent back into place without damaging the screw. No guarantee of success!

If you were able to free up the screw just with oil and patience (and a cheater) I would then either truncate the screw by 3/8" or add in a spacer between the handle and the moving jaw so it would pull tight without getting into the damaged area.

Back in the "bad old days" you could order a replacement screw and screwbox from Sears Roebuck (it's in the early 1900's catalogs!)

DEFINITELY SOLICIT OTHER METHODS BEFORE DECIDING!

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yeah, I was afraid of that and almost didnt buy it. But I figured part of the reason for learning blacksmithing is to mend things.  So if I can save it from going to a trash heap..It is worth it to me.  

 

I have not seen the inside of the screwbox, is that entire area below the protrusion hollow? i cant imagine it's threaded that deep. Time to look at some videos/pics. 

Thank you for the suggestion

 

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Here is a crazy idea If you get the screw out. And depending on If it would fit and reach the bent part. Once the screw is out try a (or multiple sized) exhaust flaring tools and torch the dented area to get it poped back out and possibly usable again. 

Other than that idea,( thats only a maybe) Thomas' idea should get it functional again.

Really wondering how it got dented like that...

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I thought of that too as part of my suggestion; perhaps for the last little bit to get it nice and round again as flaring tools have a fairly small "throw" generally.   I don't know of any that would fit down the screw hole and expand far enough to do much with the dent.

Perhaps we need to consult a brass instrument repairer?

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There probably are better tools out there. Im just thinking on what i know. 

The exhaust flares might not go deep enough. Its all an IF. 

Another might be to dome or cone the end of the screw and run it in with the box heated to atleast get it more functional. 

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Well, step 1 is to try to remove the screw. Its soaking now, I can rotate the screw/screw box assembly now between the keyed in sections but the thread still won't break free.  What's the chance that the screw is bent and won't be able to be backed out? Witherspoon the jaws completely closed is there a part of the screw that could bend?

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If that part of the screw box got smashed with it closed yes the screw could have got bent. 

Be patient with it. Keep lubing it, let it soak for hours and days and try again. As thomas mentioned you can try a bit of a cheater bar on it to give a little more force. 

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May be the screw is not bent.

Just a guess but that damage to the screw cover must have happened with the screw out, Jaws open ... and when the vice was closed the screw poked a hole in the cover. Not saying that a strong blow to the screw can not bend it, but the damage to the cover would look different. 

You will find out ... eventually ... :P

It is a nice vice and the jaws don't seem to have any serious marks. 

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No, the other side doesn't have any marks. That is why I am wondering if the screw is bent. If the protrusion is the screw then it appears that the screw is offcenter from the rest of the assembly

I have it soaking in pb blaster. I ordered some kroil, it will be here mid week. I will continue to torch, tap, resoak and repeat every few days and see what happens.

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Just a wild idea as i have no expierence in theese matters but would it work to heat the screwbox up with a torch to low red heat hopefully quickley enough that the screw inside stays cool enough to act like a tool and push the damage out as it is turned out? Or is this stripped screwbox /broken screw ville?

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I'm in Mass..  Your welcome to swing by and we can get it working together.. It will need a new bolt as well.. 

Depending on your location vs just MA.. Its a possibility for me to swing by to help.. I'm well equipped so it would just make it easier.. 

The screw is probably jammed but I doubt it goes much further into the box than the part sticking out/up since the jaws are fully together and it looks tight..  

The other way to get the dent out once the screw is out is to drill a hole across from the dent and using a rod and hammer and die to push it back.. 

if the screw box is brazed you might get lucky enough the threads don't go that far.. 

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  • 1 month later...

Well I have been soaking and tapping for almost 2 months now. I finally got the bolt to turn half a turn. I can easily move it in and our by that much now. The threads are packed with a ton of grime/old grease that is completely solidified  keep spraying and heating or is there another trick to get the crud out? Surprisingly, I actually found the leg bolt. It was screwed next to the wedge for the mount bracket. I installed it where it belongs

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Mr. Ochavac,

With Kroyl working so slowly, perhaps it is time for drastic action.

If Jennifer … does not get the device to budge, a call to the local organic chemistry department of a nearby university.

Present the problem to them as a challenge.  They may try a different organic solvent.  Or perhaps even put the vise in bath and then use ultrasonic energy on it.

lithotripsy may be used.

Just a stray though., "you never know" until you try.

Good luck.

I strongly suspect that you are " in goods" with Jennifer.

SLAG.

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Well jlpservices thank you for kindly reminding me that there is a difference between being patient and being lazy ;)

I spent 3 hours and got it apart. I had to cut off the thrust washer but it didnt appear to be original anyways. Here are some pics of the threads after a quick clean. I have the parts soaking now. The lead in looks off and by the aligning the rust Mark's on the screw to the screw box you can see how the screw aligns to the dent. Some of the threads at the end of the screw looks a bit gnarly, but to my untrained eye the rest of the threads appear to be in really good condition.

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