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Best steel for a gas forge.


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So after a while or having my anvil nearly a year and not using it because the coal forge I tried to make just wasn’t sufficient in design, I’ve just been acquiring things I want/need. What I ultimately want to do is build my own gas forge, I may just buy the burners but making them isn’t out of the question. Anyway what type of steel should I try to get for the walls, roof and base of the forge? Basically what thickness would I want at a minimum and I’m not sure what kind of steel plates usually are. I’m going off of Alec Steele’s (youtuber) forge and burners. I want to make it right so it doesn’t end up failing me. 

I also want a coal forge but I’m not going to build another one because I want a decent/nice one and I’m not sure how much that will run me at the shop I got my anvil from, which is the closest one to me. It’s about 2 hours away from me. 

Thanks in advance. 

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Thickness: I have seen propane forges that didn't use a steel shell and ones that used a section of oxy welding tank about 3/8" thick. Both worked. I have several: Oxytank---going on 20 years or so, exterior pipe from a grain auger---worked well for about 10 years then had a scale out near the burner opening. Helium party balloon tank: currently being rebuilt.

All had their virtues and their issues: oxy tank is a pain to move/travel with due to it's weight; but you can tack weld fittings on it to do stuff like twisting *in* the forge. A lot comes down to what you have access to and what you can work, (skills, equipment, money,...)

Best steel is probably some weird alloy steel that will cost as much as a new pickup; pity you don't want a perfectly *good* steel that can be bought for a couple of dollars...(best is a rather worthless term without the details being specified...)

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The walls of the forge are just structural.  They hold everything else together.  If they are strong enough to hold it together then they are good.  Don’t waste effort and money getting thick, heavy steel for the walls.  

Also, you really don’t want to follow Alec Steele’s design exactly.  He doesn’t use refractory wool blanket in his forge.  He only uses castable.  His forge is not efficient and must use loads of propane (hence the collection of huge propane bottles in his shop).  You would be better served following the instructions on Wayne Coe’s website (search for Wayne Coe artist blacksmith).  His design is simple, effective, and proven,

There are a lot of good threads in the gas forge section (along with hours of reading) that will help you a ton...but, once again, the “how to” on Wayne’s site is good.

Another option would be to visit a blacksmith near you and get help/advice.

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I've seen one professional smith who needed a large propane forge for a one-off and so just took a piece of kaowool and rolled it into a cylinder and held it that way with a couple of pieces of baling wire.  I hope he used the appropriate mask when around it!

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Aside from going to the junk yard I was too late asking anyone I know if they had any scraps big enough. They all just took it to the yard. I just want to go to the steel supplier and have them cut them to the right sizes. I’m not very good with an angle grinder cut off wheel.

i plan to make mine not as big as Alec’s and putting castable refractory on top of refractory wool for the top so the wool isn’t exposed and using bricks for the sides and putting wool behind it. Doing the same for the base as with the top. I don’t want to use wool only because I don’t want to replace the insides as much. 

Also im not tight on money for it so to say but I’m not able to spend the most. My dad is more than willing to help me come up with what I can’t. I mainly just was wondering if there’s any types of steel plates to stay away from and if I should get a certain thickness. I figured it wouldn’t matter much as it’s just a shell but I wanted some input before I buy anything. The closest Smith is 2 hours or so away and only going there once I didn’t want to call him to ask for advice. 

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Note that the time to heat up to usability and cool down to "safe" increases the more "heat sink" material is within the insulation of a forge.

As most of use are NOT industrial users where keeping the forge hot 24x7 may be a viable idea; what works for them may not be good for us.

If you use a forge it will require repair/replacement.  Hard firebrick will often crack with repeated heat/cool cycles for instance. 

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Just stay away from galvanized steel.  If you intend to weld any of it stick with 1/8” plate because, if you are like me, there is a high chance of accidentally burning through thin stuff.

It sounds to me like you have a decent plan in mind and just need to go for it.  Your anvil is cold, sad, and lonely and needs the comfort of glowing hot steel.

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Sounds like a plan.  

I personally think that two layers of 1 inch kaowool inside a 20 pound propane bottle or similar, rigidized with a 1/4 to half inch layer of hard flame face refractory like Satinite or Greenpatch,  with a split brick or kiln shelf floor would be a rugged forge that would not require frequent replacing of the kaowool.  I'd also use a ir kiln wash like Plistix or similar, which I don't think helps with ruggedness but will help to make it more efficent and use less fuel.  such a forge I think would use less fuel than the one you are planning.  If you keep an eye on it for cracks and patch them when they occur, I don't see why it would not last for many years.  just my 2 cents.  

good luck. 

 

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Check out the attachments on the Forge Supplies page of my web-site.  You can find the url and other contact info on my profile.

Don't forget that Glenn, the owner of IForgeIron.com is in West Virginia.  Contact him and ask (beg) about an invitation to come visit.

Let me know if I can help you.

Wayne

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