Jon Kerr

Complete Beginner

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10-12" single wall pipe is fine. No need for double wall pipe. Boilersand woodburners are closed systems and so more heat goes through the exhaust pipe. Also why they can use smaller diameter pipe. 

A forge stack draws a lot more ambient air and gets nowhere near as hot as a closed system. Also needs to be larger to get more draw. 

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Is single wall ok even where it passes through the wall or roof?

By building regulations in the UK it would seem you'd need twin wall but maybe in practice its not worth worrying about?

How hot/cold are we talking?

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The hottest area will be right at the opening. Can't really speak for the side draft openings but my hood doesn't get much over 200-275°f in normal use. It cools as it goes up. I can touch the galvanized pipe above my hood. And my hood is 2/3rds of a 55gal barrel. The original paint hasn't burned off in the 5 years of use. Mine goes up straight through my wooden and shingled roof. 

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Codes are generally written AND enforced by folks who have NO experience with forges and so are based on stuff they do have experience with.  I can warm my hands on my 10" single wall forge flue at the same height above the forge that I can melt solder on my smaller diameter wood stove flue.

As for what you are missing---it's the extremely large number of posts on this subject going back for years on this site!  Including instructions on how to take two pieces of single wall flue that is shipped flat and snapped together for use to make a larger diameter flue at a reasonable cost.

I use spiral seamed 10" ductwork as that was what I was able to source under a US dollar a foot.  Of course My shop is metal and not anywhere near my house and falls under the "farm rules".  Unfortunately if you  have to meet local codes; you have to meet local codes!

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It's been a long while since my last update...... Progress on the forge has been slow, but I've been busy doing lots of other building projects etc.

The workshop is all stained, and electrics installed which makes me very happy!Finished 2.jpg

Finished 1.jpg

Finished 3.jpg

I've only been using it for woodworking etc at the moment as I've been waiting for a chance to visit The Iron Dwarf and Geldon Forge (Kettering) to collect a new forge and side sucker hood. I finally made it this weekend.

Iron Dwarf 2.jpg

Iron Dwarf 3.jpg

Next step is to sort out the flue. The hood is made for 12" pipe, so I need to order a few more bits. I also need to make some bent sheet metal brackets to be able to wall mount the hood with an air gap behind so as not to cause a fire risk.

I'm still concerned about the neighbours (in terms of chimney height). I can't think of a way to make a retractable/removeable chimney so it looks like I'll have to get up a ladder and take the top section of flue off after every forging session! Fortunately/Unfortunately (depening how you look at it) thats not too often.

I intend to add some additional beams crosswise between the purlins in the cabin, which I can use as hard points to mount a roof-support for the flue. The flue will only be fixed at that point and where it slots onto the forge.

I attached a bonus picture of a bird made of cultlery which I thought some of you might enjoy! This beautiful piece was made for me by my best friend from work. He retired at Christmas (very happy for him, but I miss him every day..... and I have around 40 years to go before I can join him in retirement!). He doesn't weld, so some sections are soldered, and others are drilled, tapped and screwed. He files the heads off every screw and polishes them to be almost invisible. Its a work of art.

 

I would love to hear any thoughts/advice on the flue/hood/forge plans.

 

Finished 4.jpg

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That's a beautiful shop. 

Hope you got some pointers from Iron Dwarf while you were there. 

Very cool bird sculpture!

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Thanks Das! Yes, I did get some pointers from both Iron Dwarf and Copper Elf. Both really friendly blokes.

I'm hoping to get back up there ASAP for a tool making lesson with the Elf. Need to focus the cash on getting up and running at home again first.

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Jon, Very nice shop. I don't know how tall you have to make your chimney, but would it be possible to have it hinged so you could lay it on it's side, into a cradle to store it, when not in use. That would keep you off the ladder and eliminate a possible fall.

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Good idea thanks Les. I'll have a think about whether thats possible.

Quick update- balanced the forge hood in place to get an idea of where the flue will end up. I also bent up a very quick tong rack.

20190812_181547.jpg

20190812_181553.jpg

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Picked up a new vice.

It needs some work as its pretty rusty and almost seized. I'll get it cleaned up and back into service.

Does anyone know if the jaws look to be original? I've havent seen a blacksmithing vice with removeable jaw plates like that before. Doesn't seem like a great feature for a heavy duty vice, and the bolts holding the jaws in are loose so the threads probably need recutting.

New-Vice.jpg

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You  might want to put a reflective shield between the flue and wall with an air gap between both. Are you familiar with cement backer board, used as a wall board to hang tile or back wood stoves? There are spacers made from the same material you can buy in packages, you just drive a screw through the backer board and a spacer to provide 1/2" dead air space. 

Cement backer board should be all the heat shield you need, even if you get crazy with the fire. Or, if you have a little stainless steel sheet you salvaged, scrounged, etc. mounting it with a space between the flue, SS and wall works really well. I used a printer's tin heat shield in a log cabin and with the temperature so warm we were opening the door there was ice on the logs behind the tin. 

Bear in mind those work in Alaska, USA I have NO idea what's legal in Essex, UK. I highly recommend you ask a professional in the business. I doubt any, here or there would like the thought of a telescoping or hinged stove pipe but the final say would be your insurance agent. Would you like to bet a couple pennies on his/er answer? <_<

Yes, I have a leg vise with replaceable jaws like your's has. Mine are seized so tight I don't know how I'd bet the screws out if I had to. If you can remove the screws and chase the threads out nice and clean. Buy new counter sunk screws that do NOT reach the bottom of the tapped holes. Install them with a dab of "LockTite" thread locking compound on them so they don't work loose again. However if the do start to loosen up take care of the issue before the threads are damaged. You won't be sorry you did, it's a pain chasing old damaged threads, better to avoid it with a little diligence.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Thanks for the advice as always frosty.

I think my telescoping/hinged flue idea was just too whacky. I'll have to see how it looks but I think I'll just have to get up a ladder to throw the top section on when I want to forge. No big deal.

I've mounted the hood now with a 200mm air gap to the wall. I will look for some shielding also. (The bench in the photo will be moving away.)

As for the leg vice, glad to hear others have removeabke jaws and its not a problem. I took it all apart last night and the jaws are almost definitely original from what I can tell. I'll clean it all up and get it nice then post photos.

 

20190817_115316.jpg

20190816_200457.jpg

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I've finished making up a flue wall support collar. This is the last piece I needed so I now have everything to install my new flue. Unfortunately.... I just need a clear day to do the job and unfortunately I can't see that happenening for at least another week! The suspense is killing me. I can't wait to be able to actually forge again.

 

Flue_Support.jpg

 

In the mean time, I've been working on the new vice. It took a bit of effort over a few days to get the thing to pieces as the bolt was badly siezed. I've been gently wire brushing the surface and is coming up beautiful. Should have it back together again and working perfectly soon.

New-Vice2.jpg

New-Vice3.jpg

If anyone is interested.... from what I can tell, the removeable jaws plates ARE an original feature. I cant see any evidence of modification, cutting or grinding. Perhaps that means this wasnt originally a blacksmith vice and might have been intended for another trade? Either way I'll get it fixed up. Someone suggested I could, in future, make other plates to fit in like a "Step Vise" for specific jobs. Thats an interesting idea.

 

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Could be a new feature to make it patentable?

When you said the bolt was badly seized did you mean the screw and screwbox or the pivot bolt down at the lower end of the moving arm of the vise?  I've replaced and redrilled several pivot bolts, going a step up when the hole was badly worn; or one time I heat shrunk and bradded in a plug and redrilled the hole in the moving arm to get the jaws to align.

(As I'm cheap I tend to pick up vises that need repairs that are simple to me. I draw the line at worn out or damaged screw and screwboxes though!)

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I meant the pivot bolt but it came free after a bit of effort.

The scree and box is perfect.

The only issue is the scewed in jaw plates which I cant decide what to do with...

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