WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 8 hours ago, Dillion Brian Grant said: U Don't have to seem upset sir I was just trying to clarify I was just trying to make sure that you read and understood the attachment. This is the very first time that I have had anyone have so much trouble understanding this attachment and my further instructions. Maybe if you call me I can make my self better understood. Let me know if I can help you, sincerely. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 I'm sorry sir its just I tend to misunderstand stuff a lot and just wanted to make sure I was understanding it correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Think nothing of it Dillon. Let me know when I can help you. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted June 5, 2018 Author Share Posted June 5, 2018 Well, I talked to a guy named randy stoltz yesterday and he said that he used something other than the kastolite 30 but I cant remember what it was that he said I was hoping one of y'all may know specifically you wayne since he said he knew u, the reason I don't want to use the kastolite is bwcause of how high the shopping costs are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 Ok everybody i know it has been a while but by the end of next week I should hav everything for, my forge I'm going to be getting some Vesuvius molded D castable This is everything I'm using 2600 Vesuvius molded D castable 1 pint Matrikote 2600 ceramic fiver blanket And my burner will be a venturi burner setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 Ok everybody i know it has been a while since I posted an update but i just did my first complete lighting and I can barely crack the ball valves and the moment it lights up there is huge dragons breathe from both ebds I was wondering if there was any way to fic this This picture was taken with the valbes fully open, and the regulater at 20 psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 First off, what burner are you using? Earlier you mentioned building a Frosty T burner, but it doesn't look like that's what's in the pic above. Secondly, for the NA burner/forge combinations I've build so far, 20 psi is close to the upper operating range I ever used, even when forge welding. That's not where you want to start up your burners ever, IMO. That's asking for a body hair reduction at the very least and something significantly more painful and damaging at worst. I can't tell from the picture for sure, but it looks like flames may be coming out of your air intake on your burner. The bottom line is your burner is not functioning correctly, but without knowing what specific burner you built, and whether you built it strictly to design specifications it's going to be hard (at least for me) to figure out exactly which part(s) isn't right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 no sadly didnt have all of the tools needed to build a frost t burner, I did one I,found on youtube Didn't start at 20, I started at 1 psi which isnt much better, And no there arent any flames from the burner ports thankfully This pic is from about 5 or 10 psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 I suggest you contact the maker on you tube and ask them how to fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 I have messaged them but they havent been responding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 It's burning ridiculously too rich. . . no combustion air. The choke plates look to be closed. Open them all the way and see what happens. What size holes did you drill for jets? The purpose of choke plates is to REDUCE the amount of combustion air intake. I developed the T burner because they're so much easier to make than the old style, linear burners. I think Ron Reil stopped making this type a couple few decades ago. Getting everything aligned properly can be a real bear. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 Even when I open them up they still burn badly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 This probably isn't what you want to hear, but I think you'll be better off starting over again on the burners. Frosty and Mikey both have burner designs on here and they can help you with tuning issues - if you build them according to the directions. You should be able to use some of the components of those burners, but right now they are so far off the mark that I don't see it as worth your time to try to modify them. I really believe you'd spend less time and money and have far less frustration if you start over with them. I'll admit that part of me has a hard time with the concept of going to YouTube for burner building instructions when you have plans from, and the ability to interact with, the designers here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 Yeah in retrospect I highly regret that choice but thats in the past sadly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 Good, put your mistakes in the past but learn from them. Nothing sad about that. The pics look like these burners are running too rich to make right, certainly not just by tuning. You've made a fundamental mistake somewhere to correct it you need to identify it, examine what makes it a mistake and make a change. ONE CHANGE AT A TIME! You need to settle down and be patient, we'll get you there. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 On 7/30/2018 at 3:01 PM, Frosty said: useless quotes removed well my thinking is that my problem is the pipes going into the forge are both angled outside so there is no fixing this forge without a complete rebuild of the to half Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 That's what I mean by correcting one mistake at a time. The burners aren't performing correctly, messing with the forge makes no difference so it's a waste of time and effort. Go back to my first post in this thread and answer ALL my questions. You've skipped some important information without which I can't help you and I'm NOT going to waste time if you start jumping all over the map like the first time we tried helping you build a forge. I'm not harshing on you, I know I was harder than I should've been the last time we talked but you need to settle down and deal with one thing at a time. Right now it's the burners. Forget EVERYTHING else. Go back, read my post and answer the question. There are more but I'm keeping this is simple as possible I'd REALLY like to see you get something going here. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Richter Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 Safety alert!!!! Guys, if I look at the set up -please carry out the next tests to adjust the setup OUTSIDE. Dragon breath and flames are too hot and will affect the roofing. I know this from own experience and a molten roof. It’s always important to monitored the heat streams to avoid ‘surprises’. STOP USING THAT TINY FONT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 On 7/30/2018 at 3:18 PM, Hans Richter said: excessive quoting removed Yes I know we plan to get some cement board asap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 Well everybody as much as i hate to say it im just going to scrap the homemade forge and buy one after all this forge has just costed to mucb money and will cost me another 200 dollars at least so its more cost effective to jusy buy one premade Sorry for failing one everybody i know some of you were hoping I would succeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 So you know what's wrong with it. If not how do you know what it'll cost to correct? NO shame in failing Dillion, we all do. Giving up though. I haven't even said anything hard. Luck to you. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillion Brian Grant Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 I dont want to give up but yes I figured out that i drilled my orfise holes to large so to much propane is going in, amd also my burners are at an angle so I'd have to recast the enture roof which will cost about 100 dollars and the plistix to recoat it is anouther 10, and then redoring my burner assembly is more And I have see a forge I'm looking at that one of the blacksmiths in the NCABANA organizations makes sells them for 450, it has 2 layers of insulation with a layer of refractory in between each layer and it is a clam shell forge design with 2 burners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 No, no, no! When you're trouble shooting you only change ONE thing at a time or you end up not knowing what did what. Drill new gas jets, drill them small, it's EASY to make them a little larger and sneak up on the right size. What makes you think the burners should NOT be angled? Coming in at an angle so the flame induces a vortex in the forge is probably a good thing, at worst it's not a bad thing. It probably ain't broken do NOT fix it. You can probably take a large step to having a good working forge for maybe another, what $10. and change? Worth the risk? . . . THINK? Now ANSWER MY QUESTION! I have a couple more so get with it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 This is definitely a bad time to throw in the towel. You are getting close to having a functional system that you built yourself. I haven't seen the inside of your forge where the burners enter, but unless those are horribly wrong all you have to do is get a few parts and spend a little time to get reasonably functional burners operating and then start hammering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John in Oly, WA Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 Nothing wrong with the forge at this point. Burners at an angle are good. A few minor mods to your burners to get them in a functional range and you're good. Even making a couple of T burners from scratch is...what? $30? Definitely not $200 or $450. Slow down, fix the burners. Replace the two pipe nipples with the orifices in them. Drill smaller holes for the orifices and take the chokes off completely until you get a decent flame. Then a little tuning and you're good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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