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I Forge Iron

Coal, Charcoal, Wood Forge Build


ryancrowe92

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No I haven't fired it up yet I waited till 2 to finish it because of the wind and I was using the torch but I have a section still and then I might have some welding to do to make a extension on the bottom
I still have to make my mount But over all it looks good or I might shorten up the pipe a little

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Rotor looks to be an ok size. The rim on the barrel part looks a bit tall which is ok IF you notch it down on either side to be able to lay your bar stock flat on the rotor to be able to heat middle sections. Otherwise you'll have the same problem of only being able to heat the ends. 

Can you explain your piping? It isn't just a pipe coming down off the bottom of the rotor to the pipe coming out the side on the ground, is it? If so it will get clogged with ash and not function well. You want a T pipe where the air inlet is above the section where ash can be collected and dumped out occasionally. This can be welded up pretty easily. 

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Pan on the river forge looks cast. Don't forget to line it with clay so it doesn't crack. There are many good posts about it on here. 

Yeah legs are easy enough. It was always a bottom blast. 

If the blower is gone use something else. 

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Before you use the fitsall wrench, use plenty of penetrating fluid.

It took many years for the bolts to get in their current condition, so go slow when you are trying to get them separated. And remember loose is not off. Go a little each way to move the penetrating fluid deeper and deeper between the threads and into the gaps. Patience is the key.

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The forge has been disassembled and repairs have been started also I found out that that anvil I have is a wrought iron anvil because it soft when you hit it hard but I'm going to have to do something about the face to make it harder.

The Lincoln welder I tested out and it works

 

 

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STOP!

What percentage does the ball bearing test show the anvils rebound at over the face?

How did you find out that the anvil face is "soft when you hit it hard"?

Also, any pictures or thorough description on what you are doing to repair the forge?

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To answer your question no I did not do the rebound test I happened to have a cast iron anvil and know that Trent said and I quote wrought iron is softer and will saddle back over time and it got ding up like the cast iron anvil I got from hf. And it's old old enough to be a wrought iron anvil man who had it was born in the 30's and his dad probably owned it

 

no progress has been made of yet my dad and grandpa wants to offer advice on how to fix it and if it's not their way it's wrong if they mess up I'm hand doing all of it. 

Here is the good news I have to remake the fan cover.

 

 

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For the last several hundred years Wrought Iron anvils have had high carbon steel faces.  We are trying to figure out if your anvil lost it's temper in a structure fire.  The bounce test will tell us it's state.

Most good anvils will ding if you hit them hard enough with the edge of your hammer. Doing anything to that anvil would probably hurt it more than help it.  So before you drop it's value by 1/2 or more; lets figure out what's going on with it!

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