Frosty Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Shalev: A couple points for your consideration: The first being, we're not trying to discourage you. We've been doing this stuff and making the mistakes for decades, I got started more than 50 years ago but with very limited time available. What we're doing is TRYING to give you the benefits of our mistakes. However if you insist on making them again because that's how you learn, who are we to try speeding you on your learning curve? The other point is a common courtesy due members of the forum. Please do NOT quote entire messages in your replies, trim it to the salient points you're referring to. This is as easy as selecting a line, words, etc. in a message, a button with "quote this" will appear, click it and it will be moved to the text window. You can do this as often as you'd like. The problem quoting long or multiple long posts, especially photos in replies is it's all duplicate data and many members of the forum have to live with dial up connections so the wasted bandwidth really lengthens their download times. People who do this much often get put on people's "IGNORE" list and they don't read your posts at all. Not even in our replies. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shalev Zohar Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 On 05/04/2018 at 12:06 AM, ThomasPowers said: Design: learn what makes a good sword vs what makes a bad sword or even just a sharpened hunk of metal. (Hint: weight, harmonics, cop, non-slick grips...) Harmonics are my main concern; I'm sure they won't be as good as they can, and I find it hard looking for tips on them. I'll generally try my best with tapers and weight distribution and hope the harmonics will come with it. Grips are my stronger side, wire wrap might be harder than it seems. In regards to the design I'm thinking about switching to a sidesword, might be easier. On 05/04/2018 at 12:06 AM, ThomasPowers said: Strongly suggest you do *NOT* use a fatigued leafspring as starter stock; buy new straight stock from a spring repair/replace place!) Not fatigued, it was kept as replacement and didn't see much action, only collected some rust. I'll still buy new stock if I find good ones, but overboard is a lot of shipping costs and over here it's nonexistant/comes in tonnes. On 05/04/2018 at 12:06 AM, ThomasPowers said: A poorly heat treated blade can kill a friendship in a very literal way. I'll probably search for someone with an electric kiln big enough because I doubt my abillity to get even, good heat. I probably have the connections needed for this and will beat this obstacle once I'm there. A good kiln solves all the problems. Once I'm done I'll try a safe flex test to make sure it won't break when it's not in a controlled environment, and of course never fling the thing violently at hard objects, especially when said friends are within launch range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 Harmonics are tough as *everything* pretty much affects them. However if you can put a node (zero point) at the grip then the blade will act like it's glued to your hand. Do the opposite and it will try to leap out of your hand if it hits something hard. Wire wrap was not that hard. The swordmaker I worked under used to do it a lot. He built a false tang attached to a geared down motor running low rpms that he would mount the grip to and then would cover the grip with epoxy and use a foot switch to get rotation. I'd be in the south 40 with a spring scale keeping 50 pounds of pressure on the twisted stainless steel wire walking it forward as he guided it with heavy gloves onto the grip. The ends were beded in 2 right angle slots on the ends of the grip again with epoxy. Let set up and he would sandblast the grip to remove excess epoxy and give the wirewrap some tooth for the hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shalev Zohar Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 On 26/04/2018 at 1:30 AM, ThomasPowers said: Harmonics are tough as *everything* pretty much affects them. However if you can put a node (zero point) at the grip then the blade will act like it's glued to your hand. I think I'll do good by messing with the sword tapor and pommel weight & length, I'm patient enough to not get it right first or second time. On 26/04/2018 at 1:30 AM, ThomasPowers said: Wire wrap was not that hard. I don't know what you consider hard but this sounds pretty hard. The best I can do is hand wrap it with some tention, I don't have any dedicated tools. if it wouldn't do I can stick to wood. I'm not fond of all metal gray rapiers, I think of casting some brass parts and brass covering some metal parts to get some more color. If anything, the sword will at least look good. Can you combine bronze or brass into your wires and make it look good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 For some examples of Tom Maringer's work with wire wrapped handles search on: Maringer swords wire images (and if using google definite hit the "more images" link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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