Swage block stand

[Zachary]

I got tired of my block of firewood for a swage block stand and a combination factory stand and swage block is way out of my price range. I had my cousin cut me four 3/4” thick mild steel plates to my dimensions on his cnc plasma cutter and welded them into this. Close as I can figure the stand weighs around 300#.

[Lionel h]

Very nice , I wish I had a swage block , then I would want a stand like that .  Good build, have fun using it.

One question. How do you turn the block? 

[Zachary]

At this point main strength and perseverance!

[Frosty]

Nice build, a little over build but that's okay, it's more stable. The factory stands were so thick because they're cast iron and would be brittle if thinner. Getting good gray iron is in large part controlled cooling time. It's easier and more reliable controlling thicker castings.

Keep an eye open for an engine hoist at yard, garage, etc. sales, best $50. I've spent in a long time. I'll pick a ton with the boom extended and roll around the shop on wheels.

I cut guardrail posts for my swage block stand. Two long enough the block is the right working height laying flat and two the right length it's the right height on edge. The posts are screwed and glued together looking like an uncomfortable chair. I move my block with my pinch bar, slip it into a through hole on the block and tip it onto edge on the step or slip the bar through and catch the end on the top shelf and pry the block up. I turn it on the edge step with the bar by slipping the bar through a hole to the side I want to use pry it up and the block rotates.

I can move the block a LOT faster than it takes to read this let alone write it. I can change orientation of my block in seconds, it takes longer to get the pinch bar from it's rack.

Someone on IFI put together and posted pics of a lever type crane for moving his swage block. Hopefully he or someone remembers who and will link the thread for us.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Zachary]

Yeah I know it’s a little over built. I about just used 1/2” plate then changed my mind..... A hoist would be nice if I had room to move it around. I’m still trying to think of a way to use a bar but haven’t come up with anything yet 

[Glenn]

They added a receiver to the side of the block stand and put a jib crane with a boat winch into the receiver. Hook onto the swage block, crank it up, turn, and let it down. Remove the jib crane back to storage.

I can envision the same type set up using a receiver and a lever arm to lift with. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5jMIdffdoQ

 

[Mopar]

Great looking stand. I overbuild every

thing I build. No comebacks that way.

[Jspool]

On 3/24/2018 at 11:12 AM, Frosty said:

I cut guardrail posts for my swage block stand. Two long enough the block is the right working height laying flat and two the right length it's the right height on edge. The posts are screwed and glued together looking like an uncomfortable chair. I move my block with my pinch bar, slip it into a through hole on the block and tip it onto edge on the step or slip the bar through and catch the end on the top shelf and pry the block up. I turn it on the edge step with the bar by slipping the bar through a hole to the side I want to use pry it up and the block rotates. I can move the block a LOT faster than it takes to read this let alone write it. I can change orientation of my block in seconds, it takes longer to get the pinch bar from it's rack.

Frosty,

Any chance you would post a few pictures of your setup?  You write in perfect english but my brain can’t configure it!  I’ve been trying to figure out how to manipulate my block in a stand with leverage but the solution (which uou seem to have figured out)  has eluded me! My block is 18x18 x 4.25”. Not sure of the weight.

[Frosty]

Here are two views, sorry about the vise in the pic but as helpful as I like being I ain't a gonna clean the shop to take a pic! 

The first pic shows where I put the through bolts. The guardrail bolts we pulled when we changed out the posts in fact.

The second pic shows it from the side. I squirted a tube of liquid nails between the posts, not because it needed that much but once you open a tube it's use it or it dries dead.

WOW, FINALLY! It was a real PITA getting the pics in the right place. 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

 

      

[Jspool]

I can see that in order to choose the side edge you want to work, you would spinn the block in place and tip it onto the ledge below. Not sure how you do that in a controled manner without it falling off.

On 3/24/2018 at 6:38 AM, Zachary said:

I had my cousin cut me four 3/4” thick mild steel plates to my dimensions on his cnc plasma cutter and welded them into this. Close as I can figure the stand weighs around 300#.

I would constantly be dropping punches and drifts into that!  I like the concept except I’m no longer strong enough to lift my block.

[Frosty]

I use a pinch bar, slip it into a through hole, a little practice says which one and just lever it over. As the block over balances the point of the bar catches on the stand and I just let it down. Laying it back on top is as simple as reversing the process, a little grunt and it's above center and lays back pretty as you please.

To turn it on edge slip the bar through a hole to the side of center with the edge you need, pry it up and it rotates naturally, set it back down. It seems most of the time the other edge you need is on the bottom so you get to do it twice.

It's actually darned easy, looks a lot worse than it is. to prevent it falling off when on edge I have a piece of 1/2" that's like a staple as wide as the block and stand. Slip it through a hole and back over the stand's back edge and you have to get silly crazy to get the block to tip forward and dump the whole.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Jspool]

That sounds like a good system you have figured out there Frosty. Just the process of utilizing the right hole and the block will spin around by itself is gold.   I'll play around with how to construct a steel version that allows drifting through the block.

Thanks for sharing this.

[Frosty]

My pleasure. Somewhere I have sketches of the steel stand I came up with but . . . well, that notebook is in the basement somewhere. Anyway, it was a 4 legged steel stand with a round top that was hinged. The swage block rests on the flat on the top. To access the edge you turn it on the round top inside a rim using a wrench similar to a large scrolling wrench. Then using the same wrench you take the weight off the two folding legs and the stand top hinges with the swage block into the vertical. 

It's coming back to me now I think I came up with a pivoting 3rd. leg instead of folding legs. The folders were too problematical in concept. 

Then I was given that beautiful Lancaster pattern swage block, needed a stand and had to help replace a bunch of guardrail so I came up with that one. It's very similar in concept and action to the folding steel stand just different.

Frosty The Lucky.

[jlpservicesinc]

Great stand. Love it..

[foundryguy]

On 4/18/2018 at 5:25 PM, Frosty said:

My pleasure. Somewhere I have sketches of the steel stand I came up with but . . . well, that notebook is in the basement somewhere. Anyway, it was a 4 legged steel stand with a round top that was hinged. The swage block rests on the flat on the top. To access the edge you turn it on the round top inside a rim using a wrench similar to a large scrolling wrench. Then using the same wrench you take the weight off the two folding legs and the stand top hinges with the swage block into the vertical. 

It's coming back to me now I think I came up with a pivoting 3rd. leg instead of folding legs. The folders were too problematical in concept. 

Then I was given that beautiful Lancaster pattern swage block, needed a stand and had to help replace a bunch of guardrail so I came up with that one. It's very similar in concept and action to the folding steel stand just different.

Frosty The Lucky.

Is there a market for a block like that one? It is a simple casting, draft on the sides and easy to make. The blocks with holes and square openings are a tougher part to make in the foundry as every one would need a core. Similar material and hardness to an anvil?

 

[ThomasPowers]

The originals are usually cast iron; I would go with a medium to low carbon steel if not ductile iron.

[foundryguy]

I see them on blacksmith depot. Back to the drawing board

[jlpservicesinc]

There are several makers out there..  NEB also has some cast..   I guess it's all dependent on what sets yours apart..  Unique,  better price point.. etc, etc..