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how many grams per pound in hammers


michael klemz

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so I have been doing research and using some other hammers to find out the one I like best and I have found I like the Swedish style.  I see 500 900 all the way up to 2000 gram hammers but I don't know how many pounds that is can I just google a gram to pound scale or does it mean something else when it comes to hammers.

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6 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Nope a gram is a gram whether it's haddock or hammers. 

Candy gram or telegram maybe but a haddock gram? sounds pretty fishy to me.

IIRC it's 453.4 grams to a lb. but it's been years since I worked in the soils lab so if I wanted to be sure I'd look up a conversion chart. Simple search.

Frosty The Lucky.

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1 kilogram (kg) is equal to 2.20462262185 pounds (lbs). 

 

While we are measuring things:

The scrap yards sometimes mix short tons, long tons, and tonnes, to their advantage. Always ask which ton they are using to measure with.

The British ton is the long ton, which is 2240 pounds, and the U.S. ton is the short ton which is 2000 pounds.

Both tons are actually defined in the same way. 1 ton is equal to 20 hundredweight. It is just the definition of the hundredweight that differs between countries. In the U.S. there are 100 pounds in the hundredweight, and in Britain there are 112 pounds in the hundredweight. This causes the actual weight of the ton to differ between countries.

To distinguish between the two tons, the smaller U.S. ton is called short, while the larger British ton is called long.

There is also an third type of ton called the metric ton, equal to 1000 kilograms, or approximately 2204 pounds. The metric ton is officially called tonne. The SI standard calls it tonne, but the U.S. Government recommends calling it metric ton.

 

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Before you purchase, or forge, a Swedish pattern hammer you may want to try one out.  I also started with one of those (a 1500 g size Peddinghouse) and found it a bit of a challenge to control after about an hour of forging.  I still have it and use it periodically, especially when I need a long aggressive peen, but find that Czech, German and French patterns suit me better.  Something about the weight distribution I guess.  For what it is worth, Mark Aspery (in his first book) seems to agree for the most part.

I'm a bit of a hammer junkie, so I have a fair collection of around a dozen or so forging hammers at this point (and have forged or commissioned about half of those).  For the most part I find I use either my home made 1075 faced, wrought iron 2.5# Czech style cross peen, a 3.25# 1045 mono steel Czech cross peen I also forged, a 2# Brazil style rounding hammer I got from Michael Hoops, or (for small work) a small 1.8# French Peddinghouse cross peen.  For moving metal quickly I have a 4.5# rounding hammer from Andy Cergol. 

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Re Hammers: there are regularly occurring hammer fads in smithing and many folks pay big bucks for a hammer like the ones used by a BNS (big Name Smith). I have found that if I wait a couple of years folks who paid top dollar for a hammer they then find doesn't suit their hand and working style may sell them off for 1/2 at a conference---how I got my Swedish Cross pein.

When I teach I try to bring a large variety: long handles/short, heavy/light, fat handles/thin and tell folks they should try them and decide what works best for them!  (A bit amusing to see a coed with a lighter hammer well suited to her out forging a bunch of college grunts trying to use hammers way too heavy for them...I end up having students swap anvils and hammers till we can get them matched with what works best for them.)

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