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I Forge Iron

First time forge builder, need some advice..


bneumann0

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I've done a few simple blacksmith projects when I was younger and ive always had a interest in it. I wanted to build my first propane forge but I'm not too sure what to do. Should I build a coffee can forge or use a old #20 propane tank? I have the lining all worked out but the only other question I have is the burner. I would rather buy one if I can since I don't really like the idea of building one (doesn't seem safe to me with having not much experience with propane). What brands are out there and which is good? If building one isn't too difficult, what are some good plans? Thanks for the help.

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They are surprisingly easy to build and MUCH MUCH cheaper than to buy one from a commercial source.  May I commend to your attention Wayne Coe's site which includes instructions on how to build a forge and supplies in useful quantities at reasonable prices.  There are simple plans to build a T Burner on this site.  If you can be trusted with using a gas stove in your kitchen you can handle this!

Now as to what size: Please tell me if I need to buy a 2 seat car or a 15 passenger van?  Why can't you tell me the correct answer?  Not having any idea about what you want to use if for; you could get as good an answer by flipping a coin...

And how do you plan to do the lining? There are a number of really really bad suggestions on youtube that folks keep falling for and we have to tell them to start over...

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First off, welcome to the forum.  You should really take the time to

 

We don't have enough information to help point you in the right direction.  What do you plan to do?  If you plan to make only keyrings and bottle openers you will have different forge needs than if you plan to make decorative railings for instance.

The burner(s) you need will depend largely on the forge you plan to use, so we can't help you with that at this time either.  For a low cost, effective, and easy to make burner design you can check this out:

 

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The first question about forges is always how big? A three lb. Coffee-can makes the smallest practical forge size, and the cheapest to build; it will always be worthwhile to build and repair small hand tools with. BUT a 3/8" burner is the smallest size that is practical in this forge, and 1/2" is the smallest easy to build burner size that comes with building instructions at present.

The most recommended forge build on this group is the somewhat larger one-gallon forges that made from non-refillable helium and refrigerant cylinders are made with. Half muffler oval forges are only recommended less often because they are often forgotten about. A 1/2" "T" burner will run one of them just fine.

Five-gallon propane forges are probably the most popular and least valuable forge for a new smith. It takes two 1/2" or one 3/4" to run one.

As to brick forges...maybe if you want a general survey you could start with page one of the Forges 101 thread, and read all the questions answers that you don't know to ask yet.

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I want to thank Thomas Powers for his kind words.

I suggest that you study the Build a Gas Forge at the Forge Supplies page on my web site.  As to the burner I think that the easiest, cheapest and over all burner you can build is a Frosty's T Burner.

Let me know how I can help you.  You can get my contact info on my Profiles page here.  I prefer e-mail.

Wayne

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I plan on using the forge for knives, decorative pieces, hand tools, that kind of thing. I recently saw a forge made out of a refrigerant tank, that looks like the size I would want. I plan on lining the inside with kaowool blanket, then ITC-100 or something similar. I was planning on using firebrick for the floor of the forge. I was going to use kaowool board to make the openings on either end of the forge body smaller but still have an opening on the back (exhaust) in case I make something longer, I can put it threw. Let me know if this sounds good.

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9 hours ago, bneumann0 said:

I plan on lining the inside with kaowool blanket, then ITC-100 or something similar.

NO, no, no!!! It goes Kaowool, silicate rigidizer, and then a sealant. The heat reflective layer comes way last, and the ITC product is the worst choice for that, which you could make. Try getting some Matricoat from Wayne; save lots of money for a much better product, which is both sealant and reflector.

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