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Opinions on if this looks right


sfeile

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Does this look like it's burning correctly to you guys? I think I finally have it positioned correctly to be the most efficient but would like some more experienced input. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I have 2 inch thick brick at the top. The burner nozzle extends into the brick about a quarter of an inch. I made a tapered "cone" on the inside of the forge roof about half way through the brick. So there is about 3/4 of an inch of straight side past the end of the burner cone before it starts to taper away.

 

Just after lighting at low pressure. (Maybe 5-ish psi)

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After warming up a few minutes with the pressure up a little. (Probably about 10-ish psi.)

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Where I run it when I'm forging. Somewhere around 20-25 psi.

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The flame looks good; the forge looks hot. Looks like it's going to be another short thread. Do you understand baffle walls? 

Becuase a brick wall in front of the forge is about all you need now. A little later you will need to fix your crumbling forge, and we can discuss protecting that brick from heat damage.

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1 hour ago, Mikey98118 said:

The flame looks good; the forge looks hot. Looks like it's going to be another short thread. Do you understand baffle walls? 

Becuase a brick wall in front of the forge is about all you need now. A little later you will need to fix your crumbling forge, and we can discuss protecting that brick from heat damage.

Thanks!

Not sure what you mean by baffle walls.

I do have a hard firebrick I use as my "door" if that's what you mean. I have soft brick lining the back, but because it seems to crack so easily I use hard brick for the front since I'm moving it all the time. This is the old lining, but I still do the same thing. The flame doesn't come out the top now with the new lining though. That was due to the arch I had in the old opening.

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I am very interested in hearing ways to preserve that firebrick. I was thinking it is cracking from thermal expansion going from single digits to forging heat. I wasn't sure if there was anything I could do about that.

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Bricks or parts of them can be placed just far enough in front of the exhaust opening to allow spent gas to escape while reradiating IR back into the forge; this is the simplest form of baffle wall. Lots of people use them for years without trying to rreplace them with something more.

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For decades clay based bricks have had a bubbling agent added to make insulating firebrick. They were only good as secondary insulation. Today such bricks are totally out of date. There are several semi-insulating bricks on the market, which are based on the very same castable refractories that you can buy in bags. Morgan came up with a fully insulating firebrick that is just as efficient as ceramic wool at 2000 F; it is called K26. Morgan also makes other grades of their bricsk that are use rated to higher and lower temperatures. You can find these products on ebay at reasonable prices and low shipping rates for the lighter bricks.

The only caveat I would add for the K26 bricks is that they need a sealing layer on their hot face; Matrikote or Plistex  from Wayne should do that nicely.

 

Well, okay; the correct term is foaming agent...:unsure:

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That's pretty much what these are from what I understand. They are a K25. Supposed to be good to 2500 degrees. I can touch the metal body at full forging heat, so they insulate pretty well. I will look into matrikote and plistex though. Anything to help prolong them is good by me. Thanks!

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