BillyBones Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Ok first please do not pick on my box. It is what i had on hand to make it. Ok, it is something i was trying a while back ago when i was not so much informed. What i am looking for is burner critique. So, it is basically a Reil design. 3/4" tube 8' long with a flared end (can not remeber length, it is what his design said) The flare is how he suggested 1/8" wider that i did with a torch and a tube. Heated red hot and used a circular motion to spread. My only difference is a reducer for the bell to the 3/4 pipe is hard to find and i had to use a piece between. And my jet is an adjustable valve with a .030" orifice. The jet is set approx. 1/16" below opening of bell. The brick is 1 1/4" thick, burner set approx. 1/8' into brick. The box is just 8 hard bricks stacked. About 400 cubic. 2 on top 2 on bottom and one on each side, then 1 on each end. Oh its at around 9 psi running after heat up. Took about 10 mins to heat those bricks to red. Tried a piece of 52100 and in 5 mins was able to move it like butter. All right, let me have it. How stupid am i? Where am i an idiot at? Give me your worst, my skin is thick i can take it. I tried to get pic of flame, but just way to bright to come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Binesman Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 without a photo of the flame there isn't much we can do to help you out. forge looks to be getting hot...that's about all I can say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 How fast are you going through propane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 The first two answers were right. However, the heat of your forge tells me that your burner can't be far wrong. As to the dragon's breath; it tells me you probably should turn the burner down some. Be happy, 'cause you're in the groove, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Hmmmmm, if you want a critique from me you'll have to do something to be critical of say, spill a beer. Your forge looks to be burning well, probably not as hot as it looks in the pics but it's looking good. I agree with MIke, I'd back off the PSI once the forge is hot, no reason heating ad gassing the room. I like it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Alas, if we can't get more photos from him it's going to be a very short thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 No idea how fast propane is burning. I have ran it about 3 hours total and from just the weight of carrying the tank in and out i would guess at least 3/4 left. Oh just a standard BBQ size tank. Also it has been in the upper 30's low 40's and i have had no freeze up. From what i know about running gas, i do not think it is running to fast. From my experience the faster it runs the faster you get freeze up. But i do not claim to be an expert on the subject. I need to invest in a gauge to let me know when i get low i guess. Frosty, ya made my day. Getting a thumbs up from you is a huge boost to my ego. No worries about spilling beer, i am a professional drinker. I tried to get pics with the burner installed and up to heat. From what i understand that all effects performance. I know it burns different in a vice on the bench than installed. It being winter the sunsets early and i have a day job so most of the time i am at the anvil at night right now. But today i did not have to work ad was able to get out at a decent time. so i got better pics. Just after lighting and just before coming to temp. Ad the burner itself. Again please dont pick on my box or my welds, not a good representation of my work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Well, in these photos I'm seeing a very hot flame, that I wouldn't have thought that burner capable of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Binesman Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Flame looks like it will get it done and cant say 100 without dimensions but just guestimating by the pic has the ability to get your forge to welding temp. Good work. As for picking on your box and welds. A forge is a tool. Tools are utilitarian not aesthetic. In other words it works so stop stressing what people say or think Couple questions. What type of firebrick are you using? It looks like regular hard firebrick. The floor looks like you attempted to add a hardface that is crumbling away. What did you use for that? some advice. If that is normal firbrick put in a layer of 1/2" kastolite. Put in a hardface of plistex or matrikote to protect the brick and increase heat (if its good brick directly on the brick if you add kastolite on top of the kastolite) Kastolite and matrikote/plistex can be purchased from wayne on his website at a good price for small quantities google waynecoe artist blacksmith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 20 hours ago, Frosty said: I'd back off the PSI once the forge is hot, no reason heating ad gassing the room. I think this is one of those "obvious" pieces of advice that hides in plain sight and gets lost in the shuffle most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 The box is just hard fire brick. Like i said i built it before i had any real knowledge on doing these things. It is a lining of just fireplace cement. Yep completely off mark. I just figured in my head at just under 400 Cu." but after i actually crunched the numbers it came out to 364.5. Ironically almost the same size of my engines. My welds, well i am kind of self conscious about my work. My profession demands attention to detail ,and i just really do not like showing a bad job when i know i can do much, much better. But sometimes i will just throw something together to help get a game plane together. Thanks for all the input and kind words of encouragement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Binesman Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 You are correct with being off mark . nock that cement out and put in a 1" lining of kastolite 30. Then put a kiln wash of plistex or matrikote and you are good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfeile Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 I'm really new compared to most of the advice you have gotten, but I can confirm from very recent experience about lining your forge. I started with the same kind of brick and lost a LOT of heat. It protects and is durable, but it does not insulate well. I switched to an insulating brick, but the cheaper alternative (and since you already have the box built) would be to do like Binesman said and use some kastolite and matrikote. I'm still lacking the matrikote until I get paid again, but I will tell you just going to better insulating properties in my outside wall made an incredible difference. I heated, hammered, heated, and hammered again on a piece with the new lining in the same time that it would have taken me to do my first heat with basically the same set-up that you have. You have a good start there, but as soon as you get it lined you will notice a BIG difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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