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I Forge Iron

Gas Forge Build


CactusBob

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Rigidizing ceramic blanket refractories has become an adamant ALWAYS DO IT!! issue only recently in the general blacksmithing population and Wayne hasn't gotten around to updating the plans IF they're not copy righted by someone else. In which case he might ad a caution if he hasn't already.

Regardless, yes rigidize the blanket.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Bob, you have the drawing correct, add a thin layer of Plistix or Metrikote.  Also when installing the hinges, on one side of the bottom have two knuckles up and on the other side have 3 knuckles up.  This insures that the two parts are always in the same orientation.

Let me know if I can help you.  You can find my contact info on my profiles page.

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The only thing I saw with your drawing that I would change is the "burner holder."  This does not need to extend inside the shell of the forge at all.  You definitely don't need or want it to go all the way through your insulation and castable layer.  Typically it is welded/fastened to the outside of the shell.  It is only there to hold and aim your burner, so no need to get it down into the hot area.  Even the tip of your burner should only extend a little past the shell and be well within the insulation layer when you install it.  Steel that repeatedly gets orange/yellow/white hot tends to deteriorate pretty quickly, and you want to spend your time beating on hot steel, not replacing worn out burner parts.

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On 1/19/2018 at 10:41 AM, Buzzkill said:

The only thing I saw with your drawing that I would change is the "burner holder."  This does not need to extend inside the shell of the forge at all.  ow

I was having an issue with sketchup trying to extrude a hole from a round surface. That was the easiest way to show the hole went thru. When I put this together the holder will be on the outside. Good catch tho, I didn't think it was that noticeable.

 

Bob

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Well, I have finally been able to start, The tank was a freebie from an HVAC shop, its been wire brushed, marked and cut. I had my Jigsaw break with about 6 in to go and had to finish with a hacksaw. Now to wait for the refractory and Plistix from Wayne, the regulator and rigidizer from evilbay, and the ceramic wool from a local ceramics shop and this will hopefully be breathing fire by next week. If i'm right this should come out to about 175 cu in

Step1.thumb.png.adafff8d5804fa35c4bd5dc0e6d0fadc.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use my forge burner. I can't see any advantage to using a handheld canister type torch, but a rosebud on an oxy/acet. system might be ok.

Quick question though since I can't tell from the pictures.  Did you put a rear opening in your forge?  If not you probably want to do that before proceeding any further.

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Dry it out as well as you can before applying fire.

It's usually no problem firing with the burner to heat-cycle the rigidizer unless the blanket is still pretty wet. In that case, the steam produced will tend to cool and richen the flame. It can even be sufficient to extinguish the burner completely. If it happens to you, don't panic. It's often only a problem because it's the first time the burner has run, it has not been tuned and it is having to cope with abnormally steamy conditions. 

Get things dry by other means before making any adjustments.

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7 hours ago, Buzzkill said:

Did you put a rear opening in your forge? 

Yes there is, its the same size as the front opening

4 hours ago, timgunn1962 said:

Dry it out as well as you can before applying fire.

That wont be a problem here in Az its 84 deg today and 54 at night

2 hours ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

Place an incandescent light bulb inside overnight. That will dry the moisture, then fire it for a short time with the burner.

I think I have a light that will work. 

Thanks for the ideas

Bob

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