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I Forge Iron

bone handle


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I boil them on the Coleman camp stove out side, untill the meat and stuff is cooked off. I slightly sun dry them, then put them up untill I need them. I like the yellow, cracked look. Sometimes I'll fill them with a cheap two part epoxy, or whatever I have on hand.

I am curiuos how others treat bone, particulary well aged and dried bone.

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Wear a dust mask and use caution when sawing, grinding and sanding. The dust is hazardous. I boiled mine in water for 2 hrs and then cut up and scraped greasy marrow out of centers. Then I boiled in a 1/2 cup to 2 gallon mixed of TSP and water for another hour. Bones were very clean and very white. I got most of my bone info from JPH (Jim Hrisoulas).

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I'm no authority on stabilization, but if you are concerned about good fit 'n finish, you might want to look into it.

That fresh bone, untreated, will shink a little as it ages. And a little is really just a little. But, if you have a piece dead-butted to a bolster, and it draws up by 1/64, that hairline gap is going to stand out.

Also, if it is pinned, say two or three pins, and it contracts, you will get pressure cracks around the pins.

It all depends on how critical you intend to get.

Don

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Bruce,
As Thomas confirmed, TSP does clean the fat. After I boiled in plain water for 2 hours, there was still greasy marrow on the inside of the bones and even some gristle still attached to the outside. You usually have to split bones anyway as a typical leg bone is usually too big for anything but the biggest knives and swords, so this opens them up to the marrow, and TSP solution takes care of it. It also will dissolve the bone if you boil too long and use too strong a mix. Even at the 1:64 mix I used, there was a white chalky coat on all the bone. It scraped and sanded of easily, however. Again, take caution of dust when working with bone!

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Plain ole fashioned ants are great too bury a bone in any ant hill and it will be slick in a short time. Word of warning though set a milk crate over the top to keep critters from "borrowing " your future handle material.
Finnr

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I did a Google search for bone dust hazards and came up with very little specifically relating to breathing bone dust, but any dust inhaled into the lungs is potentially a hazard. That being said, this is what I have been told by a couple of people that should know; The tiny particles of bone, when inhaled, stick to the tissues in your lungs (as does about anything inhaled). Being organic and foreign to the body, they can be the start of an infection. I'm no doctor and I don't even play one on TV ;) but I plan to ask my doctor next time I see him! Anyway, the point is, why take a chance? Dust masks are a lot cheaper than a hospital stay or even a doctor's visit and a lot less of a nuisance than a lung disease :)

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I was told that dust from antler or bone can have the calcium leach out in the moist lungs and reprecipitate in sharp spicules damaging the lungs as the move. *any* dust is bad for the lungs though.

Miles: mineral oil will help with the drying and will not hurt the metal---can you immerse it or is there other materials that should not be oiled in it?

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Thomas-- Thanks-- the way navajas seem to be made-- at least this one is and so is a similar one, same maker, Exposito, is, they stick a little wooden shim up against the spring to protect the edge of the blade when closed. I doubt the mineral oil would hurt it. Seems to me there might be a considerable risk from a slow virus like mad cow, and maybe chronic wasting disease getting into the chitinous extrusions such as horns and antlers. I just milled out a slot in a small deer antler to receive a blade and wore my respirator. Thought you'd be coming by after the smiterama last Sat to get those 2x4s I called about....

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