Repurposed Nail Prybar Questions

[MotoMike]

My buddy wants to turn this into a pry bar.  It is marked "drop forged".  is it tool steel?  How would you work it?  what color for the initial working?  after working anneal it?  re harden it?  Temper it?  to what color?  thanks in advance

Mike

 

[Michael Cochran]

Your hardening and tempering process will be a hit or miss kind of thing. Using scrap or mystery steel you need to cut off a couple of test “coupons” so that you can test your quench and temper to find a good setup. I cannot help with working temps or steel type. I can only assume that it might be a tough steel but I could be a cheap steel masquerading as a good steel. 

This is why the suggestion of using good/new/known steel is so prevalent here on IFI. 

[MotoMike]

Thanks Michael.  I'll share all this with my buddy.  If I cut off the hooks think it would be enough to make the test pieces? 

 

[Michael Cochran]

That would probably be what I’d do if I didn’t plan to use them in my forging. Cut them off and forge them long and flat. You might want to try a graduated temper after you quench to see what colors you might want for tempering. Remember to try air quench then oil and lastly water. If it doesn’t harden or doesn’t harden enough you might try the next step to see if it’s better. 

[JustAnotherViking]

I assume this is just an exercise in experimenting with the steel rather than trying to save cash? 

I would imagine just buying a new purpose made pry bar would be more cost effective than the time and fuel involved in trying to modify a perfectly good tool

[MotoMike]

Thanks Michael

correct viking

 

[Judson Yaggy]

I find the cheap Chinese crowbars tend to work like 1045 or 1050.  YMMV.  Start from there and experiment, and don't assume they are all made of the same stuff.  

[Frosty]

It's a pry bar now disguised as a nail puller. Test coupons first. I'd treat it like medium carbon steel. When you're testing the coupons take notes!

Frosty The Lucky.

[MotoMike]

Thanks Frosty and Judson