Vendetta Tactical Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 G'Day All! After looking all over the internet & not finding squat; as my last effort Im hoping someone could educate me. Does anyone know if water will ruin ceramic insulation? Thanks, Chad Thrower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasent Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 No it will not. It's the main ingredient in rigidizer. Have you read threw the forges 101 thread. Just about every conceivable question has been asked there already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Under what circumstances? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendetta Tactical Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 Okay, What happened is that I was building my forge 3-4 months ago, but hadn't had much time to work on it since I started working overtime, but before that I had already cut my shapes and left them on top of my deepfreeze to keep them out of the way. Well I finally got the time to start back & went to get it off the freezer. I noticed a large puddle underneath and could feel the water that soaked into the material. It evidently was doing some extra insulating for my freezer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wardog Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 water shouldn't soak into the ceramic. i'd shake it out, maybe blow it out, should be good to go. the rigidizer may take a little longer to harden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendetta Tactical Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 Awesome I'll dry up the moisture then I plan on putting on a coat of satanite followed with ITC. I really appreciate the help guys, thank yall much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 You need to rigidize it before you apply Satanite. This can be done while the blanket is damp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendetta Tactical Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Could you explain a little as to why? If thats the case though Im going to be a little upset with the owner of hightemptools.com, because I specifically ask him that question. He told me that I wouldn't need rigidizer & to dampen the inswool with mist spray bottle, mix the satanite to about sour cream consistency & then bush on. He said the satanite would stabilize the inswool. Thanks Again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 In my experience Satanite will stabilize the wool, but there are a couple of advantages to using a first thin coating of more conventional rigidizing material first: The rigidizer goes on in a thin coating that does not appreciably compress the high temperature ceramic wool, reducing it's insulating capacity. Satinite will impregnate the inner layers of the untreated wool further, which can reduce it's insulating value. Home-made rigidizer (fumed silica, water and food coloring) is less expensive than Satanite, and if a thin layer is put on first, less satanite is used. With a first coating of rigidizer the inner layer of the forge has a "harder" surface for the Satanite to be installed against. This makes for an easier and smoother coating process in my experience. If you have multiple layers of ceramic wool you can rigidize each layer as installed to both reduce layer compression and "glue" the layers to each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I do not recommend using Satanite, use Kast-0-Lite instead. Kast-0-Lite is a light weight insolating castable refractory. When I apply Kast-0-Lite directly over the blanket I do not get any compression and no loss of efficiency, as a matter of fact the Kast-0-Lite improves the efficiency. Let me know if I can help you. You can find my url and contact information on my profiles page. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 11 hours ago, WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith said: use Kast-0-Lite instead I completely agree with this recommendation. Please note that there are several grades of Kast-O-Lite (I recommend 30 for the forge inner wall). Other options for an inner forge coating, if you have already gotten enough insulation from your ceramic wool are Mizzou, and for even better flux resistance: Greencast 97. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasent Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Rigidizing gives a sturdy base for your refactory to rest on but also reduces shrinkage of your wool caused by thermal cycling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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