Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Newbie needing some assistance

Kabir Singh

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I could use some assistance. I am relatively new to blacksmith and have only worked at my forge around 10x since September/October.

I have a two burner majestic forge.

last weekend I was doing some work and a red hot taper punctured the liner of the forge.

This forge has a FACTORY RIGIDIZED VACUUM FORMED CERAMIC LINER on the top and sides, with the Dense high siliconized Ladle Brick on the bottom. It has a Rigidizer applied at the factory for a hard durable interior surface, the liner is light in weight which makes it easier to move it to where you need to use it.

The liner was pierced and some crumbling occurred.

My questions are this:

1. Is this lining safe to use still now that the surface is broken, it has been scratched before but I never put much thought into whether it was still safe until the puncture.

2. How can I repair it as the FAQ states that Further rigidizer may react with the factory application and damage it.

3. Are their any genuinely safe premade forges available? Have any manufacturers truly taken safety into consideration.

This does make me somewhat anxious as I love forging very much but as an ex smoker and I have had some asbestos exposure in the past and my lung health is important to me.

I don't want to give up the hobby but my health comes first so I want to find a way to do it safely.

Thank you very much!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Contact the manufacturer and ask what they would advise as far as a repair and your concern.

Its like buying a new car - you never want to put a scratch on, it but once it has one you just use it - forges are the same way - almost all of them have had steel poked or bumped into the insulation at some time or another.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have tried but am still waiting a response. The crumbling of  the ceramic liner has me concerned and leaves me wondering about safety etc. I don't want to be inhaling respirable fibres.


this promote me to do more research and feeling the need to improve the safety or buy a safe  forge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all, kudos for putting safety first. If only more people did that, we'd have fewer injuries and cases of preventable illness!

Second, please put your location in your profile settings. Some answers might depend on where you are (e.g., availability of repair materials).

Third, take a look in the Gas Forges section of the forum. Your question may have been answered already, although you may need to do some digging.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too would suggest that you paint the interior with either Plistix or Metrikote.  This will not only seal the breaks but improve the efficiency of the forge.

BTW, I think that Mikey meant Wayne rather than Wade.

Let me know if I can help you.

You can find my contact info on my profiles page.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/29/2017 at 7:46 PM, genesaika said:

Im no expert, far from it in fact, but I would say you should add a layer of refactory cement like kastolite and a layer of radiant reflection like matrikote.

I think the puncture would be fine with that done, but I'd wait for Mike, frosty, or Wayne to confirm.

I don't want to be picky but to add to your knowledge base so your help is more effective. Kast-O-Lite products are NOT refractory cements they are flame face furnace liners as are other refractories say Missou, etc. there are many brands and formulas. "Refractory cements" are adhesives intended to stick various flame face materials, say fire bricks, to the inside of a: furnace, fire place, kiln, BBQ, etc. "refractory cements" aren't intended for direct flame contact and degrade quickly.

A refractory and a refractory cement are two distinctly different things.

Sorry for the side track Kabir. Without knowing what forge you have it's hard to say if or how dangerous a crumbling liner is. KUDOS for a safety first approach! We've hardly gotten a chance to say hi, it'd suck big time if you got sick and died on us. A good kiln wash, take your pick Metrikote or Plistex might not stick the crumbling pieces back in but it will go a long way towards encapsulating dust and particles that can be a serious breathing hazard. They'll also improve the efficiency of your forge.

Even if it's a temporary patch it'll let you use your forge safely while we help you build your next one. You didn't REALLY think this was the last forge you'd own did you? :rolleyes:

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Temporary fix: kiln wash (matrikote/plistex)

More permanent:  take the forge outside preferably on a windy day.  Wear ppe!!!!  Gently knock out any "crumbly" areas that are left so that you are left with a solid base and pour a 1/2 cast of kastolite for the entire forge then kiln wash.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the replies.

things are very hectic till tomorrow when I can reply properly and have proper conversations with all you fine people. I truly appreciate the willingness to help.

Frosty - it is a majestic forge 2 burner artistic deluxe model. They are going to send me the relevant MSDS. Certain things they want kept private for industrial espionage reasons which I understand and I will respect their wishes on that.

Again thank you very much for responding and I will be in touch more tomorrow. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello all,

Thanks again for all the replies. It is bitterly cold here today :(

I am still waiting to hear back from the manufacturer but I would start to get my ducks in a row to make my forge safe.  working at the forge creating things helps still my mind and I want that back.  I sincerely want to be able to get back to hot metal and not have concerns about inhaling fibres anymore.

I have heard two ways to proceed.  Kiln wash and the other being kiln wash over top of refractory. Being a total newb I am not sure which is the best approach, which products are the best and safest.  And I have no idea how to go about applying these materials.  I am looking forward to learning from you all.

On a bit of a side note I have entertained the idea of switching to coal but I am sure there are issues here as well.

Frosty - you mentioned building forges in the future ... once I fix this one why would I want too ... make it better??

Thank you!


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Wayne and Frosty:

I am looking at adding a layer of refractory over the vacuum formed ceramic and the ITC-100 or something comparable over top of that.

I have 2 questions:


1) Which refractory do you recommend so I can begin researching it.

2)Does the refractory or reflective layer contain fibres as well? Does the refractory break down at welding temps?


thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Refractory use kastolite30 wayne sells it.  It will not break down (or at least so little it will take years to notice) from welding heat...however the use of flux while welding will eat refractory kastolite holds up pretty well but you can see it putting matrikote over the refractory not only helps with fuel efficiency but it is very resistant to flux.  


There are no fibers in kastolite or matrikote to worry about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hi guys,


its been a while. I’ve been trying to find out what the liner is from Majestic forges but the owner refuses to tell me who the manufacturer is and he will not give me access to MSDS sheets.

I am not sure apply refractory to a square box. H

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...