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I Forge Iron

Manipulating a big hammer, installation


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Mighty Mo is in the shop!

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Fortunately the pad eye was bolted and not welded to the top of the hammer

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Here is a close up of the 3/4” pin drilled through the slab to anchor the chain fall

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Here she is inside. I was kidding before when I said I’d have a good 1/4” clearance but it ended up being reality!

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And slid back into her home until a foundation is poured and cured.

Thanks to this forum and everyone who helped out with suggestions as to how to get this in. It really helped my confidence levels to get this done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Frosty said:

Does it really hammer the floor that hard? I've only limited experience with self contained hammers but none shook the shop. I got to try Bob Bergman's 3B Nazel and his 300lb. guided helve I can't recall the name of. Deb could tell they were running in the next room but they weren't putting rings in her coffee. At that time anyway, the slab in Bob's shop was 4" on a good base. Another power hammer I got time on was a Kuhn 40 IIRC. and it was the same story, you could tell it was running but it didn't shake or rattle anything on a 4" slab.

My 50lb. LG is noticeable, Pat's 50lb. running at the recommended speed is noticeable. Pat's wants to go walk about but it's not anchored, mine's just got a piece of 2" sq. pipe stuck into a gozinta so it wiggles but stays put. Neither shake anything.

I've got to wonder if IK has enough anvil under it or is properly balanced. If you think about it the exact same force less friction is pulling up on the whole hammer as is driving the ram down. The anvil should be moving upwards with the same energy, they should cancel out. Is the frame flexing or what? If it's rigid it should be a zero sum solution.

Frosty The Lucky.

Iron Kiss hammers have some of the better tup to anvil ratios out there. Mine is around 16:1.  Then the whole hammer is mounted to a 3’ x 4’ x 2” plate. Total weight of 4500lbs so I doubt

that it is shy on rigidity or flexing too much.  I am pretty sure that the big hammers you have been around like the Nazel 3B were mounted on isolated foundations. That being said, it is possible that the slab in the location where I tested the hammer was not on a solid base, so I’ll hook mine up tommorrow just to give a couple of whacks to see how it feels in my shop.

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2 hours ago, BeaverNZ said:

Are those wire rope handles on the bench for tooling I had wondered about doing some thing like that myself as it would be a good way of lessening any shock from miss hits

Those top tools do have wire rope handles that have a portion partially unwrapped to create a swelled handle.  They were thrown in with the hammer when I bought it.

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I concur on pouring a good foundation. I poured 1.5 yards under my 50# Murray, and plan on pouring 16-20 under the Nazel 4B when I install it. With bigger hammers that I have been around the isolated foundation is a must. Especially as it appears this is in a shop connected to your house. My 50# mechanical is rock solid on its 3.5' thick foundation. The only indication that it is running is the smacking of the material with the top die. I also do not suggest dampening with a rubber material. Stick with lumber.

If I remember right, your size is a bit of an enigma for the IK. Most of his tup weights were smaller in his production and were closer to a 20:1 ratio. Not to say 16:1 is bad. My Nazel with sow block and bottom die on the anvil is around 19:1 ratio. A lot of other hammers dont even come close to either numbers. If I were to own a hammer that was not self contained like this class of hammers, the IK be the one. I ran the 110 at Kerry's for like 3 minutes, and it was a beast. Very ridgid I remember thinking when it would hit.

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I fired up the hammer today even though it is still on pipes in order to see how it effects the shop.  Suprisingly the hammer performed as advertised. It does not require an isolated foundation.  Nothing in the shop jumped around. I imagine once I have it sitting on 1” plywood it will be even better.  That being said, while it does not require a foundation, I do not doubt that it will perform even better with one.

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I have a hitch ball installed in my loader bucket.   When I unload heavy machinery I just use the loader to move my loaded trailer into place and then raise the bucket to make a ramp out of the trailer bed .  The last little bit of distance to the end of the ground can be ramped with blocking into the shop or ground.  And yes I have used two anchor bolts to anchor a chain into my shop floor.   Worked for my come along just fine.

When I moved my Gorton mill into the shop I had the same problem with the door clearance so I removed the motor assembly .   I doubt you will have the option to make your hammer shorter.   Let us know what your final solution is.

 

Opps Just now saw the whole post.  Looking good.

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