Max Mulholland - Tetnum Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 this is my 15# HF and it might be better suited for a door stop it now weighs 9# after the feet left it but it has lasted for 4 years i proly need a new anvil but it shure is an upgrade from a rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 OLD ENGLISH anvils. Anything 1780-1850. ignored and "decorated" in a barn for a few decades William Foster 1844 TTT 0-3-5 (stone) (soapstone in all the stamps that are still there, more than a few letters missing) still working on how to clean it up without removing the patina Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 My 110# harbor freight russian cast steel anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 My 110# harbor freight russian cast steel anvil. you got the same anvil as me!;):D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 this is my 15# HF and it might be better suited for a door stop it now weighs 9# after the feet left it but it has lasted for 4 years i proly need a new anvil but it shure is an upgrade from a rock What you need is an anvil larger than your hammer. LOTS larger, 10-15 x larger is good. You can work on small anvils for sure but it isn't so efficient and you run the risk of breaking the anvil. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 you got the same anvil as me!;) They aren't great anvils but as tetnum said, "it's better than a rock!" I'm thinking of ordering a Nimba Centurion right after payday next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 cool! Yeah well it got me started ! I `am saving for a anvil around 200 Lbs and up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Mulholland - Tetnum Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 4 years with it is alittle to long but i am reluctant to buy the only local anvils due to the fact that they are all munitions factory surplus giger counter goes wild in the same room as them thus i am left searching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steponmebbbboom Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 radioactive anvils! sounds collectible, do they glow in the dark? that could be useful... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Mulholland - Tetnum Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 they dont glow saddly and they are really tempting 450# 5$ untill you know there radioactive i hope no one buys one of these things ever in the next oh say 10'000 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfb343 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 they dont glow saddly and they are really tempting 450# 5$ untill you know there radioactive i hope no one buys one of these things ever in the next oh say 10'000 years But are they *REALLY* radioactive, or is that just what people say.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 And what is emitted -- aplha, beta or gamma? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete46 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Boys I Know What Your Think'n ! When I Went On The Anvil Hunt ;i Would Have Settled For One Made Of C-4 & Blasting Caps ! Radiation +anvil = Not Good ! I Think There Should Be A Bounty On All Anvil Shooters!:mad: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Mulholland - Tetnum Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 giger counter goer wild and you just dont want an anvil that came out of a cold war era munitions factory that has sence bean buried in a superfund they have bean sealed up for 10000 years but some of the anvils skipped the burial you dont want one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesteryearforge Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 were they hand forging these weapons ? Mike Tanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfb343 Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 giger counter goer wild and you just dont want an anvil that came out of a cold war era munitions factory that has sence bean buried in a superfund they have bean sealed up for 10000 years but some of the anvils skipped the burial you dont want one lol, no problemo, just get yerself a fancy bananna suit and some lead BVDs to go with the radiometer :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DClaville Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 this is my anvil 70kg. i don't know much about it so if any one know something then plzz tell me Daniel CL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Ravizza Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Here are a few pics of my two pre 1780 colonial anvils. One has five feet and the other has the usual four. The four footed one is clearly marked with the stone weight of 1:0:11 or 123lbs. Although it only weighs about 115 lbs. The five footed anvil is faintly marked with 1 0 11. It still weighs 123 lbs. I think its in pretty good condition for its age. The face is still very flat. As far as I know they are not radioactive. But the last few posts in this thread are getting me a little worried! Enjoy Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steponmebbbboom Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 dan, what do you suppose the fifth foot was for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I've stood at ground zero of the first atomic blast---Trinity site; Radiation level there is lower than taking a plane from NY to CA. Need more details! Jock over at anvilfire came from a family business that used to do special machines for repair/maintenance work for Nuclear Plants, he might be a very good resource to ask about what they may be contaminated with and if they can be salvaged. BTW the Trinity site is open this weekend for tours, only open 2 Saturdays a year as it's still an active military test base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete46 Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 Thomas; So That's How You Got Your Super Human Black Smith'n Powers!:o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Mulholland - Tetnum Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 thanks for the advice thomas but i just dont want to mess around with them at the currant time to dangerous (too many epa pepole running around fineing pepole for everything and if they found that they would have a big pay check at my expence) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Di Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 I have 3 anvils that were my late husbands. Someone is interested in buying them but I have not been able to find out what they are worth. One is a tinner anvil that is almost 40 inches in length. I have pictures but do not know how to attach them. Not sure what the url is?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Anvil prices depend a lot on what country you are in: for example they are often cheaper in the UK than in Australia; which of the 100+ countries that participate here on these forums on the World Wide Web are you in? Next anvil prices are like used car prices they depend a lot on Make, Model and Condition: There are often stampings on the side of an anvil giving the maker; some anvils will have number stamps on the front of the feet under the horn. Since you must be accessing this forum from a laptop like I am I can share how I add pictures: I take them on my phone and send them to my email address. Then I access them on my email on my laptop and right click on the photo and save it to my picture folder on my laptop. Then when making a post I go down near the bottom of the reply box and click on choose files and select the pictures I want and then click on the + to insert them into my post. The site has a limit to the size of a photo you can post; but you can resize your photos to meet the limit. (My ancient cell phone takes small photos so I don't have that problem.) For anvil photos: one of the top to show condition and one of any stampings on the side to show maker & weight---which may be in CWT! If it's an unknown anvil a picture under the heel and one under the base as well as any stampings on the front foot can help identify it. We generally discuss prices in USdollars per pound to be able to compare the prices between different anvils---why knowing the difference between anvils marked in CWT weight and marked in plain pounds or even marked in Kg is important. For instance; I recently sold a 248 pound Peter Wright anvil, CWT marks: 2 0 24, with edge damage on one edge for about US$4 a pound. It's important to not try to "pretty up" an anvil for sale: Painting it can hide defects so I lower the price I'm willing to pay. Welding, grinding or milling the face damages the relatively thin heat treated layer and can turn a usable anvil into scrap. If you want to pretty it up wire brushing to remove any loose rust and coating it with boiled linseed oil works well. People may ask you about the ball bearing test or the ring test. If the make of your anvil is not a quiet make like Fisher or Vulcan, then when free standing it should make a clear ring when lightly tapped with a hammer. If it doesn't then there may be a hidden crack or face delamination---a severe defect in an anvil. The ball bearing test consists of holding a ruler vertical on the face of the anvil and drop a large ball bearing onto the anvil face from a measured height and record how high it bounces up. Here in America we usually drop it from 10" as then the bounce measurement comes out automatically as a percentage: 7" = 70%, 8.5" = 85% etc. The higher the bounce the harder the anvils face is which is a good thing! So tell us about these anvils! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.