SteelDigger25

Dirt tamper as starter anvil

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Man, you are golden. Mount it up, polish it up a bit with a flap wheel or sanding disk, and get to work!

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I don't know if he's going to be able to count on getting that much snow in Alabama. Is that critical to the mounting system?

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what would be the best set-up for the 55 solid fuel forge? a side blast or a bottom blast? I have a pretty good plan for the bottom blast that will produce a really nice fire pot but ive heard negatives about both styles. I wanted to do the bottom blast just for the ease of cleaning out the ash and I will be mainly using charcoal or coal. any other forms of solid fuel recommended would be greatly appreciated.

And also another thing how well would it work out if I mounted the anvil directly into the ground? I have a portion of my shop with a nice solid clay type soil that will be able to support it nicely but im concerned about energy loss. Has anyone ever attempted this type of mounting? I would obviously be building up the ground where I plan on mounting the anvil itself so I can have a comfortable working height. Maybe burying a cinder block or two underneath and on both sides then burying them with the solid clay packed around the cinder blocks and the steel plate im using as the anvil. does this sound like a good idea? Im not planning on moving the anvil so mobility isn't a concern.

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Best for what? What are your criteria for best?  I need to purchase a vehicle, what would be the BEST one for me to purchase?  (And I'm not going to supply info on if it needs to hold 16 people or 16 tons of coal; cross an ocean or travel to the International space station, win formula 1 races or be economical to drive! Tell me the BEST!)

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Thanks for all the seemingly HILARIOUS,! quips and remarks but if i have to define the word "best" for you, it's possible you're not the person I would be accepting advice from. I stated it's a 55 gallon drum forge, "best", in this context would mean MOST PROFICIENT... and or reliable.. I'm sure you have all the answers I'm seeking. Also where can I get one of these cars that travel to the outer reaches of space you speak of? I've tried and tried in my f250 but for some odd reason it never works and my insurance keeps going up.. 

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Funny I didn't use the term car; I said Vehicle and can name a class for each of those uses.  (ever look up how many hp a Saturn V had? Way overkill for the ISS...)

As for Best Forge: You of course are going to use it 16 hours a day to forge weld 2" sq stock right? *YOU* know what you plan to do with it, and how much use it will see. We don't---I haven't been able to log into the mind control lasers on the secret satellites since my two concussions.However I've just about cracked the command password for the flying monkeys!

Just the difference between charcoal and soft coal makes a big difference in what would be "best". Besides fuel, how are you planning to push air into it?

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I will be using to make knives and decorative items to accent my wifes woodworking projects, nothing really extravagant I was wondering shall I say the most effective set-up to induct air into a molded refractory lined 55 with a third of the drum cut off from the capped end. I will be using a hand cranked blower or may just use the keep it simple stupid method and use an old hair dryer. But I'd like to be able to use it for larger projects as well without major modifications having to be made. 

I will predominantly be using coal but charcoal on occasion. (Homemade) 

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soft coal or hard coal?  (I think a bottom blast would be better with hard coal; but it's getting down to personal likes; wouldn't want to argue too much with CRS and wake up hot shod with all 4 shoes mounted backwards...)

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Side blast likes hard coal just as well as soft and charcoal. Hard doesn't like any of the manual (read intermittent air supplies and realy needs an electric blower (water operated blowers and bellows work well too) 

1/3 drum is simply to deep, 8" is plenty for a side blast 5 for a bottom blast with out a fire pot. A whole drum with just over a half cut away to access the fire and form a hood works to. 

So a simple sideblast with a 3/4" schedule 40  tuyer (7/8"h will heat 1" stock) now bottom blast can be built 8" deep with a 2" tuyere and then use a 2" bullet grate. This gives you the ability to switch from A fire for 1" stock to a fire that dose 2"+ stock. I still like side blast for the ability to swap fuel. Again as to refractory,  1/3 clay 2/3 sand (any thing that will make a good Adobe brick) will work just fine. Find some dirt (not organic topsoil) put it in a jar with water and shake it up. Let it settle over night. If the bottom layer (sand) is at least 1/2 and the top (clay) is at least 1/3 it will make good Adobe and coal clinker won't stick to bad. Rich clay will work but clinker will stick like glue when it vitrifies. No problem with clean charcoal but with coal it can be an issue. I have herd that wood ash added to the mix helps. Refractory brick and cement will have an issue with clinker sticking as well and is pricey. Classically sideblast forges in England and the colonies were filled with fly ash and clinker, and a sprinkle of water and the fire bowl was molded each morning with the new fire. 

I wouldn do no such thing to you TP. I can think od a few young smiths Who have me sorely tempted...

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I offer to hot shoe hecklers; I tell them it will be the last shoes they ever wear as they "wear like iron!"   Haven't had any takers---yet.

Another thing I'll do if they are obviously accompanied is to offer to make their accompanier a brand to use on the heckler---old english black text of course!

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