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Got this idea on the World Wide Interweb. Sort of a Brazeal profile but made from flat stock mid carbon (4140) measuring 1/4” x 1 1/2”. Rounded shaft in a swage block with no weld at joint. Filed in a very slightly tapered profile for setting the hot cut into a stump. No heat treating beyond 2 normalization cycles. Cuts beautifully....way better than the one I made from a RR spike!


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Lol,,, chuckle smugly.


Your design comes from a gentleman who makes a tapered shank and a shouldered hot cut. Same cutter design.

The only reason I can see to do that is if you are unable to forge the shank to snugly fit your hardy hole.

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  • 1 month later...

ignorance alert.

I thought that a hot cut in a hardy hole relied on the shoulders to take the force and the shank in the hardy hole kept the hardy aligned but that it should not be jammed in.  can you explain why you want the tapered shaft jammed in there?  Jon, I like the design and will consider it in for a hardy tool with a square close fitting shank.



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The taper is very slight....no more that 1/8” top to bottom. The hot cut sits very snuggly in a hole in the stump that is 1/2” shorter that the shaft. Additionally, the bottom of the hole is lined with several coins to provide a solid base for the tool. Works great for nails and other small cutting needs (under 1/2” stock or so). 


I realize this this is not a normal approach but was intrigued by the notion of shaping a Brazeal style hot cut out of flat stock. It was never intended to be used for heavy cutting in a hardy hole. 

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3 hours ago, arftist said:

Or if you have ever seen an anvil with the heel broken off.

A good shoulder protects the heel.

Absolutely. A snug fit and a good shoulder are critical for any hardy tool for far more reasons than what I mentioned.

Now don't get me started on a rounding  hammer being a good daily driver forging hammer,,,,. No matter how squashed it is.  ;)

Happy New Year.

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