MilwaukeeJon Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 What size stock do you think was used to make this? Pretty nifty old railroad ruler as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Look at the hammers used to knock snow and ice out of draft horse hooves. They often had handles like that so thy could be hung on the sleigh/sledge/wagon and not get lost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilwaukeeJon Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 If forging, would your beginning billet look like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Well you could do it that way---or just forge weld the handle on; or punch and insert the rod and brad over the top; or put a grove in it and wrap the handle. To make that handle drawing down the parent stock would be tedious. I'd forge weld the round stock to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilwaukeeJon Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 I’m going to try it with one piece just for fun. Off and running.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilwaukeeJon Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 In process....hard to avoid the crease (cold shut) where the handle folds down. Any thoughts on a different initial cut to avoid this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 The front or the back one? Drilling a hole to cut to comes to mind for the back one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilwaukeeJon Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 In my case the peen end creased. Would different layout cuts/angles create a better replication of the original? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilwaukeeJon Posted October 28, 2017 Author Share Posted October 28, 2017 Here’s what it ended up looking like, 9 1/2” tall with a 3” long head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 Creasing of the pein end is commonly called fish mouthing. To avoid this when drawing a tapper, point the stock first then forge the taper back from the end. Buy pointing the stock, you have pushed the corners into the metal, now as you forge the taper and it forces material tord the end the corners do not grow and fold over the end. if you start with a shorter, but wider piece of stock you would fist fuller the large side, then split the backside sort of the fuller. Now when you fold the handle down the fuller makes a smooth transition. At this point you now forge the head down to eliminate the bulge ahead of the fuller (she note about fish mouthing) now forge the smaller face of the hammer and draw out the stub for the handle. Forge weld a longer handle to the stub and precede. The first picture shows you how to forge a fish mouth, the arrows indicate your hammer blow, the second shows how to forge a taper with out a fish mouth. (Yes I am away of the phalic nature of third illistratiin in the sequence) and the last shows how I would go about forging your tool. The advantage forges have over other fabrication methods is waste. Your method generates waste mine dose not, if one insists on drawing out the handle (inefficient use of time) then extend your blank and cut around your small face to form a blob of stock. Be carful to address the cold shunt, alternatively use wider stock, forge the head on the end and forge down the remainder for the handle. the use of fullers to block out your black is a time homored and effecent way to forge. Often an experiance smith may use the curves of side edge of his anvil and a wide faced hammer to fuller a blank as aposed to using a separate fuller. But a separate fuller (round bar bent into a Z laying on the anvil face) provides a clean consistent method of doing so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilwaukeeJon Posted October 28, 2017 Author Share Posted October 28, 2017 This layout makes a lot of sense. Inefficient if you do a long handle (like I did) but very helpful way to think about the movement of metal in the head. Fun experiment. Thanks. Also, by “creasing of the peen end” I didn’t mean fish mouthing on the tip. I’m already a master of that! Rather it was a reference to the spot where the handle gets bent 90 degrees down. Your pics are a big help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 Forge welding a rod on after drawing down the handle end is pretty dang effecent. Use the fuller to speed up moving the steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 My first take is that it was a recently made chipping hammer for use by arc welders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilwaukeeJon Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 The owner is in his early 70s and the hammer belonged to his grandfather. He also owned this nifty hammer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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