Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Leg vise help


hawk18

Recommended Posts

The end of the leg must be planted firmly on something solid.

The stationary jaw and the entire leg, being a single piece, function as a post anvil.

Virtually all of the engery from hammer blows is meant to be transferred straight down  this leg and into some additional mass at ground level. 

Think of your post vise as an Anvil with a vise jaw.

Robert Taylor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The end of the vise traditionally has an "acorn" on it slightly above the bottom nub. The idea was to drill a hole in the floor to take the nub and prevent x-y movement let the acorn spread the Z force on the floor.  As I have a dirt floor in one of my shops I have a piece of plate metal with a hole in it that stands in for a solid floor---making it big enough that you can stand on it will keep it very stable---ever try lifting yourself by grabbing your belt?.

My light duty travel vise has either a piece of plywood with a hole or for grassy areas a RR tie plate with a nut welded on for the nub to fit in and I have forged RR spikes as "tentstakes" for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The mount sits on a base large enough to be standing on when torquing on a work piece in the vise jaws. Much like Thomas describes. That base is 1/4" steel and I have some black iron pipe I could cut and weld to the base to stabilize the acorn. Does that sound like it will work?  I'll try to post a picture of it. 

Hawk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

The end of the vise traditionally has an "acorn" on it slightly above the bottom nub..........

Thomas that is the terminology that I was at a loss to remember. Well said.

Hawk 18, your add-on pipe socket should do the trick.......

Robert Taylor

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hawk,

 Thanks for the pictures, it's always nice to see the object being talked about , so it's been a while since you posted them.  I'm interested in how the design has worked in practice.  I'm leaning toward making something similar.  What is the radius of the base plate and do you find it large enough to stand on to stabilize the torque  during heavy work?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plate is around 28 to 30 inches across, 1/4" thick. In use, it works good, but, if I had it to do again, I would move the 3" pipe all the way to the rear. I think that would make it better. With the length of the handle and the overall weight, you can crank it down tight. However, I haven't had to bend anything long enough to test it. 

Hawk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...