Derek Melton

Fly press tooling for slit & drift of 3/4 inch round and square bar

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Anyone happen to have any pictures or ideas for tooling to slit & drift 3/4 inch round bar under a fly press? I've got a couple of simple ideas.

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one pass or two pass tooling? (How big is the fly press?)

Make the slitting edge to cut just a little bit smaller than the needed circumference for the drift.

Use H17 or S7 for the tool and  make a good bottom piece to meet the tools travel requirements, A36 will work for that unless the run is very large.. (May want a two spot piece: one area for the slitting and then shift it to allow for the drifting.)

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How does that compare to a Hopkins #2 screw press?   Hmmm looked it up, cute little thing.  What alloy(s) will you be slitting and drifting?

Might look into the use of lube on the drifts too.

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3/4 inch 5160 round bar at first.  Yeah, the no. 4 is a little smaller than I wanted but I got it at a price I could not resist.  =)  I still think this no. 4 will do a LOT of work for me though.

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Greetings Derek,

            The drift is the same as a handheld except set up to go into your ram....  I use a fence that is split to support the stock when drifting because the stock bulges and is hard to index on the flip side. Round stock it is best to hammer a small flat at the pierce point to control shifting.. With the fence it’s easy to index the flip side just make a mark on the stock and the fence.. Once you get the hang of it it’s easy .. Have fun

Forge on and make beautiful things 

Jim

 

 

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A simple "V" block to hold the round centered on the slitting chisel will work fine, with a relief in the "V" block for clearance for the chisel

I believe that Thomas should have said make the working end of the slitting chisel slightly less than 1/2 the length of the circumference of the final drift.

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search on Hopkins #2 Screw press  I got one in mint condition for US$100 including loading it in my pickup.  I wish it had a couple more leads on the thread but for that price....

5160 is probably going to take a couple of heats unless your working relatively small piercings (and with very good tooling)

No but I meant the circumference of the cut should be a bit smaller than the circumference of the finished hole, I didn't mention length and didn't mean length. mea culpa

 

 

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Thomas is right actually. But it's easy to get confused on how to make a slit the right length to correspond to a certain size drifted hole. Just trying to help clarify that. Sorry for the confusion

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I certainly don't mind a couple heats as long as I have a method to accurately do it repeatedly. I've been slitting and drifting those by hand and I get about every 3rd one to my satisfaction. :( 

 

6 hours ago, jeremy k said:

A simple "V" block to hold the round centered on the slitting chisel will work fine, with a relief in the "V" block for clearance for the chisel

I believe that Thomas should have said make the working end of the slitting chisel slightly less than 1/2 the length of the circumference of the final drift.

 

Hey, I like the v-block with a bottom hole idea, that's pretty simple!

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Just now, Jim Coke said:

     V BLOCK FOR SQUARE STOCK ?   Ya need to support the stock at the point of chisel impact ..  

Nah, the v-block jig would be used for round only, that's something that could be put together so quick that it doesn't bother me that it would be a 'single use' jig.  =)

 

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It doesn't have to be a very big "V" just enough to hold the round from rolling away. Even 10-15 degrees on each side is plenty if the slitter is centered properly.

One could also use a half round bottom tool with clearance for slitter and swelling during the slitting/drifting.

Skin the cat with what means are easiest for you.

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