Chris Comtois Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 So I just started building my first gas forge yesterday from a cut-down 20-lb propane tank. I'm using the plans and ordered refractory materials from Mr. Wayne Coe's website, he's been very helpful with the amount of materials necessary and the price seems reasonable. I'll be building Frosty's T_burners this weekend. Pics will follow as I progress. My plan is to run two of the T-burners off a 100-lb cylinder. Currently I have a hand-cranked coal forge that I built, it works great but it's kind of a production to drag it out of the shop in the winter. I'm looking forward to cookin' with gas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Just don't think you can run gas burners indoors without freein your tootsies with all the open doors and windows. CO is nothing to take chances with. Give a shout if you have problems. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 When I run my gas forge I like to have both 10'x10' roll up doors open in my 20'x30'x10' shop---also the eves are open. I will shut one of the doors half way if the wind is blowing the anvils over...just because you can't see the exhaust doesn't make it safe to breathe! Coal is nice that way---you see that nasty smoke and you KNOW you shouldn't be breathing it! I strongly suggest a CO monitor as you live in an area that gets cold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Comtois Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Thanks gents - I'm a safety auditor four my company, so I am quite familiar with ventilation issues! I do appreciate the reminder tho, it's nice that folks look out for each other. To use my current coal forge in the winter, I have to shovel a large spot on the apron of my shop, drag out the forge, set up the stack, etc.etc. I'm too much of a coward to cut a hole in the roof! Not bad in the summer when I can leave it out for a couple of days, in the winter it get's old fast. Looking forward to just opening the garage door and letting 'er rip! I expect the refractory materials to be here today or tomorrow (thanks Mr. Coe!) so I think I have my weekend planned. Question - Do I need to do anything special to adhere the wool to the shell? Does the kast o lite hold it in or do I need to use an adhesive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 You know you can put the stack out a side wall if designed properly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 If you cut the wool a little large it'll hold itself in place by compression. Lay the layers so the seams don't overlap. Compression and rigidizer will keep everything secure. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 And yes; you can "glue" the wool in place on the shell if you rigidize it all the way through. But why would you want to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.