Tzelik Hammar Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 I think this is the right place to post this, not 100%. So, my hand crank little forge is still in action, but being a portable rivet forge, it lacks an actual firebox, and for me, an amateur smith, it makes it very hard to control the hot spot as I need to, as well as making the startup a real pain. Although it currently functions, I noticed after my bout with anthracite last weekend that the blower's cast iron mount is cracked pretty bad, so I am thinking of either modifying the existing forge (challenging), or just pushing it in a corner and building a new one (without a hand crank >.>) (maybe less challenging?). . Repairing the bracket would probably mean attempting to make a new one, as it is broken alongside a previous repair from before I got it. As for the firebox, I was thinking about dropping a brake drum in the large open forge pan, over the tuyere grill and just using it like that. I "work" (don't get paid but I keep showing up and doing what I'm told because I love learning the trade) in a mechanic shop and have access to lots of fun scrap related objects, so I was thinking of setting up a large brake drum style forge if I chose to start from scratch. I also have a 4'x4' sheet of 3/8s sheet steel from a previous project that I was going to use as a base for a treadle hammer, but might be ok for the meat of a table-style forge. I intend to keep working with anthracite, simply because its cheap and easy to get for me. My question is really: Repair and make do, or build anew? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Remember that overly large brake drums are less useful a forge than some smaller ones. You don't want a forgepot so deep you can't get the hotspot above the rim! The workpiece should go into the hot spot horizontally and not a steep slant down! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Greetings Randell, You might try mixing some bag charcoal with your anthracinte. I have used many rivet forges and one trick is a large mound of coal . The hot spot should form about 4 inches from the bottom.. Once you have learned fire control with your forge you can make the new part for your blower mount.. I hope this helps... Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 I figured I could cut out and form the edge of a bigger drum into a little shelf so things don't fall off the edge. I have access to shallower drums though, if its just plain better. Wouldn't mixing charcoal in add all sorts of impurities and possibly trash out my work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Greetings again, You will never know until you try .. Many smiths only use charcoal alone with no effect on the metal. Good luck Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Well made charcoal is one of the cleanest solid fuels there is; trash is probably from the anthracite! (Charcoal ash is actually a flux!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 interesting. ill have to see about that then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Remember both Frankish/viking pattern welded swords and Japanese Katanas were forged using charcoal! NOT BRIQUETTES!!! Real lump charcoal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 The charcoal trick helped a lot. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 If you arrange bricks on edge around the air grate you can have any size or shape fire you need an it'll prevent the fire from getting blown into your charcoal before you want it burning. Coal isn't so bad, the heat will coke it, anthracite not so much but it'll still burn off a lot of impurities for a cleaner hotter fire. My general choice is a pan forge a duck's nest fire and fire bricks. Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 I finally took some pictures of my forge to upload the other day, so ill put that in the solid fuels section so its visible, let you see what I'm working with so far... anthracite isn't easy but its a nice clean fire for me and I only put in charcoal when I need it, instead of a mixed ratio like I was thinking originally when suggested. When I'm going to do a couple of heats in succession, like when I was trying out the "forged to finish" knife after I watch a video on here, ill put charcoal in to sweeten the fire a bit, and if I'm going to have something out for more than 3-4 minutes I put charcoal in a couple minutes early to keep things moving. It really has helped a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 You should have just included them here, as we are discussing that forge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 Sorry. I did not realize this thread was actually in the solid fuel section already... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 As I said over on the other post, if you have access to a lathe or a drill press you can wip up a handle likely split. As to the bracket, can you fabricate a new one? You are a blacksmith right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 The inside of my pan. The tuyere sticks up about 1/4 inch above rest, and it is the high point. The rest slopes down to the outer rim. I've tried various grates with different levels of success, so far expanded metal is winning for a good burn. The issue now is that unless I dig a hole in the previous fire to start a new one the next day (using the old fire as both pot and insulator), the coal just rolls out to the edges. The problems with digging in to the old fire for the new one is that my pan is constantly full of mess and I get a lot of crud when I poke around to check for clinker, and my stock either sits at a wrong angle or pushes through the old fire to get to the heat, picking up crud along the way and introducing old ash right into the heart of my new fire. I've tried a couple things (sand, dirt, damp dirt) to level it up or even slope it inwards, but I don't know what I'm doing. I cut in a small ledge and mousehole in the opposing faces to try to bring the stock into the fire at a better angle, but it didn't help much other than I don't have to hold my iron constantly. Next level would be to put a brake rotor or fire bricks in to create an actual pot to hold everything in. This would cut my pan depth by about half, but would it result in a more reliable burn? I'm using anthracite and charcoal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 Found some thinner fire bricks and set the expanded grate back in. Fire works beautifully and the cuts in the pan run right through the heart of my fireball. Took some fiddling but I think I have it licked. I'll know more after I dissect today's fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 Much better Randell. Grind the pointy ends and sharp edges on the pass throughs, the poky parts especially. That's a better version of a duck's nest. The expanded won't last long, better get to bending some round stock for a durable easier to clean air grate. It's tweaking along nicely. Good job. Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 Thank you Frosty. Will do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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