Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Forge build


81pistolsfiring

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

If he wants up and running cheap and fast, I would build a solid fuel sideblast. Maybe $25 if you buy all new materials, then for $300 he can build a small forge and a heat treat furnace.

Yes there are cheaper alternatives, my point is he is obviously new to forging and the time it will take for him and frosty, Thomas and every one to get him lined out and get a functional forge, the atlas is a reasonable, capable forge that's just plug and play he could be up and running without haveing to build anything, 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Up and running fast? PPE! Hole in MINERAL soil, 12vdc or 120vac mattress inflator, a foot or two of iron pipe and scrap wood. A smooth faced hammer around 32oz. a BIG rock, preferably fine grained but anything will do to start. salvaged steel and some matches. You can make the rest.

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, it's a DIY hole kit. Fence post with multiple holes is called Telspar, it's what they hang street signs on. Round fence post has a center hole. End paragraph one of the DYI hole instruction sheet. I'll be sending my snail mail address so you can get your check in the mail soonest. 

Patiently yours, Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So as I said I slowed the process down and I've come to appreciate the build more than before. Learned a lot from this forum so far but it's helped me understand the importance of sustainability rather than rushed hammering. 

I wanted to see what would happen to the yellow brick I purchased and here is the result below. Heat sink info was right on the money. I tried a setup I found on Larry Zoellers website, he has been emailing me back too and is a really cool guy. 

So moving on I found 6 k-26 brick on eBay for $30 and also found a local insulation supply shop who sold me 10 sq ft of kaowool and she is checking on a rigidizer for me as we speak. (See pics below)

with some time to spare waiting in my kids I popped into the local re-store and found this tank (pic below) I want to work with eventually but for now I will wait on the k-26 and experiment with that. 

Anyways that's my progress so far. Hope this helps beginners and shows you experts knowledge being followed. 

IMG_6992.JPG

IMG_6989.JPG

52701642145__6A910480-1CCF-463D-94EE-009082BC2E51.JPG

52701645744__232A790F-5EAE-4893-B124-533817C023D4.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rigidizer is easy to make the stuff you buy has a limited shelf life and is spendy. Fumed silica, water and a little food coloring is all you need.

Wear a dust mask to mix, you don't want to be breathing silica dust. It just occured to me, I'll bet a couple few drops of dish washer additive, "Jet Dry" in the water would make mixing a LOT easier.  Jet dry is a wetting agent that breaks water's surface tension so it wets more easily. Sodium Laurel Sulfate is the wetting agent we used in the soils lab. 

Anyway, mix your own rather than buy a bucket, I bought a bucket and have half a bucket of solid block stuff left. <sigh>

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

open the tank slowly to keep the excessive flow preventer from kicking in.  Some valves seem to need a sharp rap to disengage it after it has engaged AND THE TANK IS TURNED COMPLETELY OFF.

If your tank is "fussy" about the excessive flow preventer, exchange it with another.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...