671jungle Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 face 9 1/2" x 2" Height 25 3/3" have not welded or weighed it yet, i guesstimate 75-80lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 .671 Jungle. Your going backwards. Their is a minute bit of flex in the web that will rob you of efficiency. Now if you slice the head off and weld it to the two uprights your in business, but buy the time you buy rod and preheat you can buy a real big chunk of solid scrap: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteElder Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 First time posting so it this isn't the place to ask sorry. I got this large angle plate and want to use it as an anvil. Plate is about 104lbs of mystery steel. Planning to put a 1" square hardie and 1" round hole. Towards the back and think to mount it do they would be thru holes exposed on the backside. Wanting help on ideas on how to mount it. Thinking something like the hand drawing. I had thought to cut some grooves in the edge and use some sort of tiedow / toe clamp. A buddy is suggesting I should put a couple more holes thru the faces and lag it down. So I am open to suggestions on how to mount and or what holes I should put in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 Should work fine as you have it drawn. Make the base for the down angled piece good and sturdy and do most of your heavy hammering on that edge. Have a welder? Could weld eyelets on the side to bolt into the stand from the sides just to tie it down better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1 Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 That is a lovely piece of steel for an improvised anvil. For anchoring you want to bolt it down in the direction of the hammer blows, so i say two steel rods vertical down, two inch from the top edge and one rod in the center more or less of the vertical plate. The 1/2" vertical rods I would weld on the underside of the horizontal plate, drill vertical holes in the timber and two blind horizontal holes 2" diameter to house the nut and allow for a spanner to tie up. The horizontal bolt would have to be a through bolt with the head countersunk and the nut recessed so that it is not in the way, and to be tied up after the verticals are done up. The hardy hole will need a bit of a cavity under it for the hardy tools to fit but not too deep. I wouldn't bother with a pritchel hole. You lose enough face to the hardy already but if you really must, have it on one side and carve a channel in the stump for the tools to get through. Nice find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
671jungle Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 13 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said: Their is a minute bit of flex in the web that will rob you of efficiency. Now if you slice the head off and weld it to the two uprights your in business. i was wondering about that. I may just do that. I got the whole thing free as one piece. I chopped it up like so. I know there are special treatments for this stuff, being its probably manganese steel. I was going to take it to a weld shop or friend. Any Tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 1 hour ago, WhiteElder said: So I am open to suggestions on how to mount and or what holes I should put in it. If it were mine I'd probably rotate it so that instead of one horizontal and one vertical leg there would be 2 vertical legs in roughly a V shape when viewed from above. For a hardy hole I'd plan on using the natural corner to form 2 sides of the hole and find some thick steel to weld in the full vertical length for the other 2 sides. One leg I would leave flat on top for general forging and the other I would grind in useful sections for drawing out, setting shoulders, possibly even a slot for bending etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatLiner Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 I second Buzzkill's suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteElder Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 On 12/12/2018 at 4:36 PM, Buzzkill said: If it were mine I'd probably rotate it so that instead of one horizontal and one vertical leg there would be 2 vertical legs in roughly a V shape when viewed from above. I kinda like this idea. And with this I could have a few tabs with holes welded on the bottom then screwed down. I might drop up a couple ideas and post again. Thank you all for the great ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 For the hardie hole, weld a piece of heavy wall tubing to the side of the plate. Lacking tubing, weld a heavy mechanics socket with the correct size drive hole to the side of the plate. A 1 inch or larger drive socket would work. Add a couple of gussets for side support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Preheat to about 500f, and place a space so you weld full depth intend of full oenitration. Myself, I would use the rail as is and look for a solid drop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Charles, when I did items like this I only heated up until I could not touch it as the welding would throw even more heat into it. 7018 rod was my choice for medium to high carbon steels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Thanks BGD, I learned to aneal aluminum buy coating it with shoot from a acetylene flame. It burns off at about 500f so it makes a good reference for me. Beats the heck out of buying temple sticks for rat killing projects. to the big piece of angle, mount as shown in your picture. Then you have that wonderful 2x12” “anvil” and the 12x12” striking anvil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 The soot trick came in very handy for a project I did awhile back on a magnesium piece that was bent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted December 15, 2018 Author Share Posted December 15, 2018 kISS... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
671jungle Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 On 12/13/2018 at 12:49 AM, Charles R. Stevens said: Myself, I would use the rail as is Fixed it, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 Excellent. An elegant solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted December 16, 2018 Share Posted December 16, 2018 That should work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted December 16, 2018 Author Share Posted December 16, 2018 Looks like an anvil to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 A good example of my contention that non-london pattern anvils ARE ANVILS! Forging a katana on a "block anvil" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxwWf-MfZVk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryDaddyBird Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 I just finished the stand for a 3.5” diameter steel rod that is 26” long. It’s at 30.5” total height. After pouring in sand around the steel the ringing or ping drastically reduced to almost none! I like it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 http://www.marco-borromei.com/fork.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Thomas Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Started life as a 12"x12" I=beam drop. Cut 3" off either side of the top plate and the corners off the bottom plate. Welded the 3" strips back on the bottom of the top plate as skirts and the corners back on the bottom plate as web braces. Then added vertical bracing to the web. And finally plugged the ends of the top plate. I have plans to cut in a hardy hole and a pritchel hole and then fill the underside of the top plate and between the vertical braces with lead. Working face is 19"x6". Work on this project has slowed since I obtained a 125 lb 1907 Hay Budden. Still, my ALO is a good striking anvil at nearly 100 lbs even without the lead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azhobbychick Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Just picked up this crazy piece to improvise an anvil with. It 120 pounds and 2 inches thick. It’s almost 2 feet in diameter. At this point I am finishing up the forge build then I will turn to figuring out a mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 I've seen a shaft section anvil used before, Honest Bob had his holder configured to be able to use it both flat and on edge---for drawing stuff out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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