konvit Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 I have been doing forge work for many years and have a great coal/charcoal forge. however due to time constraints I decided to branch out into gas forge work as the heat up and cool down times are drastically reduced. after getting the materials and working with a friend to build the forge I realize now that its going to need some modification to work as needed. To begin with this is a double burner forge utilizing a high pressure regulator with a 0-10PSI valve. the original design was to make this forge on a pivot so it can be turned upright to be used for the large crucibles I have to do scrap recovery and smelting. the overall interior is 19 inches deep X 9 inches wide. the dual burners have a top insertion and have several air inlet holes. so the first issue I ran into is that the forge was getting too much or too little air. the burnner uses a .35 mig tip after i got the air issue resolved I was able to get it fired up and looks to be working. only a bit more dragons breath then I would like. I realize I need an exhaust port. this was built so the bottom/back can be removed for long works so i can remove that however the full opening would allow too much of an exhaust. so I need some help to get a modification design for an exhaust port and to find out if the design should work with a basic air inlet i have or if i need to look at a forced air inlet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Move the burner nozzles back inside of the Kaowool. Rigidize the insulation with fumed silica (from eBay) in water; a cheap way to make colloidal silica rigidizer. Get rid of those hard fire bricks, and add a Kaowool pillow and/or Morgan's K26 insulating fire bricks (from eBay), to raise the floor level back up to where it is now. Then add a flame face made of Kast-O-lite 30 LI castable refractory, from Wayne Coe, over the pillow and/or K26 bricks. Use those hard bricks, K26 brick with a zirconium silica flame coating, or a round high alumina kiln shelf with a small centrol opening--to pass stock through for heating--as an adjustable external baffle wall, to allow exhaust gas to exit, while bounciing IR radiation back into the forge interior. Then we can have a better look at a properly completed forge, and judge what your burner is doing under ideal conditions BTW, I like what you have done with the steel work on you forge. 2 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said: a zirconium silica flame coating, or a round high alumina kiln shelf with a small centrol That should read "... a zirconium silicate flame coating, or a round high alumina kiln shelf with a small center opening..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Check out the Build a Gas Forge on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com for instructions on how I like to build a good, efficient, tough, long lasting forge. You should be able to build in a couple of days leisurely work. Let me know if I can help you. Check my profile for my e-mail address and phone # , I prefer e-mail. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.