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I Forge Iron

Post Vise Height ?


Derek Haiges

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Am I crazy for wanting to lower my post vise ( Jaw height) to match my anvil height?

I just got a post/ leg vise but have not set it up yet. Before I do, i would appreciate any thoughts.

The thinking behind this is that i know with woodcarving theirs more control when your looking directly over the chisel. I did an imaginary test, and it feels  more comfortable with a chisel at a lower height. Im debating whether i should keep it at its intended height, lower it (dig into earth) to reach the height of my anvil top surface, or somewhere in between. Since i am a beginner, i would hate to set this up lower and come to find all the reasons why not to.

My Post Vise is 42" tall and my anvil height/ sweet spot is 28" tall.

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Welcome aboard Derek, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the gang live within visiting distance.

Hammering in a leg vise is better done low, anvil height is well within the norm for guys making a living with them.  A while back somebody posted an article out of an old timey how to book, maybe even a "Machinery Handbook." in the article it listed the proper working heights for vises and the reasons. The top of the closed jaws is the mark for height.

Striking vises were mounted at a height to facilitate the kind of striking being done. Heavy blows and the vise was sometimes below waist height. Lighter vertical blows say: heading rivets, or upsetting, bending, etc. and it was mounted higher. 

Hand work like sawing, filing, scraping, etc. and the top of the vise was best mounted at elbow level so the forearms remain level through the stroke. 

My tree dented brain says you're thinking is right for chisel work. Mount the vise to fit you ad how you work.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Small bench anvils were, and still are, traditionally mounted high for fine detail work with small hammers (think jewelers tools and surgeons blades), medium sized anvils at around wrist height for solo work with single hand hammers and the occasional light sledge (knifemaking and general shop work) and really big (quarter ton plus) industrial shop anvils and swage blocks were mounted at mid-thigh so that teams of strikers could swing 16-32 pound sledgehammers, or big punches and drifts could be driven without having to hold the hammer at eye level.

Same story with vises, a Brian Brazeal striking vise stand is the US answer to the European monster shop vise. Small, gracile 3" to 4" jaw finishing vises that weight less than 50 pounds should be mounted high and near a window for light chiseling and file work. Robust 6-8" jaw vises can be mounted anywhere convenient in the shop for holding stuff to be beat on. Just like anvils and swage blocks, the bigger and beefier the vise, the more forces can safely be brought to bear.

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Mount the vise without modification as to the height. Next try it out at that original height for the primary job you are doing. Next build up YOUR height by standing on one or more pallets (and or planks) to test out a new height that you want to consider. When you find the comfortable height for YOUR job height, use that height for a while to be sure it is what you want. 

Next make the height of the vise match your new working height by digging a hole in the floor, or build a more permanent place for you to stand on. Just be sure not to trip over or fall off your stand. Try this arrangement for a while, and try several projects before you make any final modifications. Do a little research on the vise to be sure it is not a one of a kind, extremely rare, yada yada vise before you do something that can not be undone. It is your vise after all so make it work for you.  

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plus 1 on Glenn's comment..     Having only 1 vise is a compromise and figuring out the ideal height for the work being done becomes a big factor.. 

Unless doing really heavy work in the vise (sledge hammer) I find a few inches above anvil face is pretty good for general work.  File work even with elbows,  Chipping work a little higher as then you are gauging the cut with eye site and have to be able to see the chisel face as you strike.. 

in the old shop I had made platforms to stand on for both vise work and sledge work as my strikers were shorter than myself.. 

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Vises came in differing heights, I have several in my shop at different heights with the original legs on them.

For my whomping vise I built up a platform to stand on to get "over it".  Nice to have different heights and sizes available for different work. (I even have a machinist vise that mounts on the crank up/down table for my drill press so I can put the work piece where it needs to be for filing!

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Heh, heh, heh, I have a tilting, 2 axis drill vise I use to file. I picked it up cheap from a guy who destroyed a couple drill presses trying to do mill work using that vise. He SWORE it was the vise's fault and gave it to me. 

It's a great vise for draw filing it locks rock steady and like you say the drill table gets the height perfect.

Frosty The Lucky.

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