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Hand forged tongs from rebar


ryancrowe92

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5 minutes ago, ryancrowe92 said:

I have an anvil I was using the cinder blocks to get it to where I can reach it

Okay, good. I missed that detail; thanks.

Think seriously about replacing the blocks with either a wood or metal stand. Cinder blocks don't do well under repeated shocks, and you do NOT want your anvil to suddenly be dropping down on your toes!

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4 minutes ago, JHCC said:

Okay, good. I missed that detail; thanks.

Think seriously about replacing the blocks with either a wood or metal stand. Cinder blocks don't do well under repeated shocks, and you do NOT want your anvil to suddenly be drop

Yeah but i stand 6'5" tall and I need it to be about 4'7" I'm guessing but when it broke it didn't fall the anvil keep it together and I need a way to keep my peice held so I can do something else while it's being heated

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On August 21, 2017 at 1:50 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

 

We'll talk about an optical illusion. I have been seeing what was a modern art version  of a close up of "machete" 

I just finally saw that now haha. I let my eyes blur just enough and saw it. 

 

You are going to ruin that $12. Heat gun right quick with it at the bottom of the pipe. If you ran out of pipe then cut some off that one and make a T.  Even a short pipe off to the side is a whole lot better then having ash fall down into the blower. I see that your forge is welded together do you have access to a welder? That would make it easy to make a t pipe. Other then that there are several other ways to go about it. 

I was going to comment on the cinder blocks but you just commented on that so all I'll say it they would be stronger stacked with the holes going down through. Rather then stacked on their sides. 

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9 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

I just finally saw that now haha. I let my eyes blur just enough and saw it. 

 

You are going to ruin that $12. Heat gun right quick with it at the bottom of the pipe. If you ran out of pipe then cut some off that one and make a T.  Even a short pipe off to the side is a whole lot better then having ash fall down into the blower. I see that your forge is welded together do you have access to a welder? That would make it easy to make a t pipe. Other then that there are several other ways to go about it. 

I was going to comment on the cinder blocks but you just commented on that so all I'll say it they would be stronger stacked with the holes going down through. Rather then stacked on their sides. 

i have a MiG from harbor freight, and i ran out of wire while i was welding it to the barrel lid because i didn't care how it went together, and it got deformed it was made from a bed frame i cut up and welded together

 

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Ryan, one little tip about quoting: if you click "Quote" at the bottom of a comment, it will quote the entire comment, as you see. However, if you're only replying to one little bit of the comment, you can highlight that bit and a little "Quote this" box will appear. If you click that, it will put a quote in the reply field of just that highlighted piece. Thus, for your last comment in reply to Daswulf's "do you have access to a welder?", you could highlight those words, click the box, and get this:

20 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

do you have access to a welder?

This makes it a lot easier to see what you're replying to, and it also helps our members who are still using dial-up internet and can't wait around for big chunks of quote to load. (The same thing goes for photos, by the way: it's good to resize them so that they don't overwhelm a comment thread.) Thanks.

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Somthings wrong with my phone when i try to use it to quote, it will then only let me write in the quote

rarley i can get it to do what i want

Quote

Dial Up Internet

I remember that is that even still around i mean nobody can be on the phone and it takes 30 minutes to load a page i remember those day in my childhood i was happy when we got dsl but now that we have charter im happier

almost time for lunch guys todays menue looks like either pork sandwiches or philly cheese steak., i got free time in algebra 2 and then i have Eng 3 and should be free rest of day

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16 minutes ago, ryancrowe92 said:

i remember those day in my childhood i was happy when we got dsl

My sophomore year in college, my roommate had a direct-dial connection to the computer at National Institute of Mental Health (where he'd worked the previous summer). That was cutting edge in those days!

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it aint pumping fuel to cabartor my dad has this idea that the electric ones are better than the manual ones but this is the fifth pump we've had to put on so im just gonna buy a manual and put it on. and then it has a starter overheating problem and i have to roll it off if it gets over a certiant temp 190 its a 85 Chevy c10 pickup 4 speed with low manual we also had to replace the fuel tank with a different one because it was "a suicide tank" and nothing wrong with it but i am going to buy the 2 20 gallon tanks selector and all that goes with it. and put it on my self and get the bed back and buy the right size sides cause the bed was rusted and it needed a new tailgate and both sides and then fix the interior and paint it blue and get a new seat and a radio with a casset player

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Starter is probably  carbon build up in the solinoid. You still have to R&R the starter to replace it. When you do invest in a heat shield, especially if you are running headers. electric pumps do not do well drawing fuel up hill from the tank, so the must be placed in the lowest position possible. Another thing to look at is the fuel lines going over the frame rail at the back of the cab, bad cab mounts let the cab rub holes in the lines. As it is above the tank and not presurised little if any fuel leaks out but the pump ends up sucking air. Sometimes they will still run, but not under load. 

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A heat shield will fix the problem, or you can do a bit of retiring and retrofit a Ford style relay on the firewall. If you do that you have to re rought the power wires from the starter to the eccesory block on the firewall and run power to it. If you know what your doing it's an easy way to upgrade your starting and charging system (and it eliminates about 12' of wire in the process). First you install the ford relay, using a short cable from the battery to the relay, resend or buy a new cable to go from the relay to the starter, jump from the cable to the starter terminal and re rought the purple wire (this is the signal from the ignition switch) to the ford relay start terminal. Now rerought the power wires to the firewall eccesory block. Now rerought the charge wire from the alternator to the fire wall eccesory block and install an 8 gauge wire from the accessory block to the batory side of the new starter relay. 

Or just install a new Chevy relay and a heat shields. Going back to manifolds will require reworking the exhaust system, and with a 1" spacer under the carburetor, headers will give you a bit more pep (and beter gas image if you stay out of the secondaries on the Q-jet). Tho for the most gain match the intake and exhaust ports next time you have the heads off. 

cut my teeth on square bodies...

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Or just install a new Chevy relay and a heat shields. Going back to manifolds will require reworking the exhaust system, and with a 1" spacer under the carburetor, headers will give you a bit more pep (and beter gas image if you stay out of the secondaries on the Q-jet). Tho for the most gain match the intake and exhaust ports next time you have the heads off.

 

 

I have 3 inch pipes going out of the mufflers, gas tanks are $60-70, straps are about 12, and the fuel selector is about 50, i also later want a 4WD conversion but i got to find transfer case and the hubs pump is 20 and manifolds are 200 so a good 300 right now i need fuel effecieny more

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Bit over kill, lol. But if you go to manifolds you will have to have that cut out and replaced with 2". Is their a cros over pipe? If not next time you have a few extra $ either pick up an ir pyrometers or have youe exist shop put her on a rack and find the hot spot in those 3" runs, have them connect them with a 2" cross over at the hotspots. It will improve exhaust scavenging and intake loading. Every little bit helps 

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1 minute ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Bit over kill, lol. But if you go to manifolds you will have to have that cut out and replaced with 2". Is their a cros over pipe? If not next time you have a few extra $ either pick up an ir pyrometers or have youe exist shop put her on a rack and find the hot spot in those 3" runs, have them connect them with a 2" cross over at the hotspots. It will improve exhaust scavenging and intake loading. Every little bit helps 

 

my dad was the one to blame for the 3 in pipes he fixed it up when he need it to go to work and then gave it to me when he go his truck fixed and no its a twin exhaust

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Valid points all Charles but he's having fuel problems so starter overheating could well be just cranking it too long trying to get it started. We used to see that all the time in winter here. Young folk especially just laying on the starter till it fired, we replaced a lot of burned up starters, especially Dodge, gear reduction starters.

Ah the good old days when I could work on a car. Now I can't even find the spark plugs then again in the old days we had to do a tune up twice a year, summer and winter tune ups. Now a tune up every quarter million miles is about average.

Ah, a project car, I think we've all had a project car or two. It's really nice to buy something new enough you don't have to work on it constantly to keep it running, considerably cheaper too especially if you count your time as worth anything. This really brings back memories of "The Blue Goose" my '59 4x4 Chevy short bed pickup. It got to where I could break the engine down and have the pistons on the bench in about half an hour with impact wrenches. That's TAKE IT APART with Impacts, NOT put it together! Of course those were the days there was room under the hood, I could stand on the ground next to the engine under the hood. Oh, 235 cid straight 6 engine. Great engines, I loved the 283 V8 too.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Nothing wrong with duel exhaust. I just know how to squeeze every bit of effecency and go out of an old Chevy truck.  

He said it would crank at over 95f, Almost guaranteed to be a starter solinoid.

283 cranks, 350 blocks, 250 (ford inline 6) rods, 305 heads and custom Pistons... Chevy 302, 12 to 1 compression on pump gas! Lol

Poor kid had no idea of the can of worms he was opening up...

Just put a heat shield (you can make one from a cables soup can) and a new solinoid, check the steel fuel lines behind pd the cab for leaks and put a good old mechanical pump back on (your a broke kid, you will run our of gas enugh to make it more reliable than an electric) but you have to scrounge up the $100 for parts. 

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mine is a 305 and i don't lay on the starter if it doesn't want to crank i start to pushing but we fixed the starting problem when we put a new battery in it from NAPA and it cranked at 230 i just couldn't believe it but now it cranks like at 190 and a 210 it wont start

 

On ‎8‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 1:03 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

 you have to scrounge up the $100 for parts. 

Friday's  Payday $73

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You already said your tired swinging the hammers after just a few strokes, that tells me you have to much hammer for your skill and fitness level. I still don't swing a 4# hammer for any length of time, and swing a 2# rounding hammer most of the time. Things to remember with a big hammer, rotate the hammer so the handle is vertical and the head is up when you lift, no sence fighting leverage lifting the hammer, speed is your friend on the down stroke, not power, driving to muscle your way threw the anvil will kill your rist, elbow and /or sholder over time, keep your elbow in, eyes over the work and straiten your rist just before I pact. The hammer should lie down the web between your thumb and forfinger with your hand laying on the handle. A confortable pinch with the forfinger and thumb, tighten your hand from your pinky (60% of your grip strength is lost with out your pinky) up when you straiten your wrist before impact. A death grip on the hammer is not a good thing. 80 year old men, women (we love and count our lady smiths as equals, well ok they tend to be sparred than most of us guys but that's an entirely difrent mater...) and kids a third your size are out forging you, not because they are big and strong, but they have learned to use their strength to maximum effect. 

A plate over you ASO isn't the best as it exorbs energy, a block or solid shaft will serve beter, use the ASO to hold your hardy tools, and for its horn. Ask the instructor at the tech school about helping you find a drop. 4x4 square, 5" round, 3" plate... Even a rail drop will work. Some have used broken train cuplers, rock crusher teath, fork lift tines, old dozer parts 

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So check the fuel lines first, and replace the pump if needed, you can always jump across the two large terminals in the starter untile next paycheck. 

Myou know, home schooling and votech gives a time to scrounge around for side gigs, like cleaning up yards and such. Get the truck up and running, no reson for a man with a pickup and a willingness to get dirty and sweat to be broke. Your willing to smith, so I know your willing to work.

Make dang sure it's in park or neutral and the parking brake is set! Getting ran over buy your own truck is a possibility if you try to jump the starter terminals! 

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