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nice score Elemental! 


JHCC, Yeah I thought about it being overkill lol,

but the only other plate I have laying around is a 20”x30” piece of 1/4” and that’s way smaller than I wanted to put this fire pot in, so since I already have a full sheet of 3/8” plate that’s what I planned on using, I’ll probably cut it in half and make a 4x4’ table out of one side and a forge out of the other. 

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Yes I’d like to see your rr forge if you got a picture! 

on the new to me fire pot, it’s missing the clinker breaker the hole is 4”x3” rectangle, the shaft hole looks 1/2” or bigger but I haven’t measured it yet. I’d like to see a picture of the original breaker if you or anyone else has the same firepot, that way I know kinda what to build for it

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My large outdoor coal forge is 3' x 4' and made from 14ga. with a 1" angle iron couple stiffeners running across the narrow way. It has a fire brick bed and a "duck's nest" fire spot / air grate. The table is 2" light wall sq tubing with a spreader / shelf a bucket's height off the floor and two diagonal stiffeners.

True I haven't heated 100lb. piece of steel in it but I'm not going to either. It's plenty stiff and solid, loaded is 2 plastic buckets of coal. NOT all on the fire!<_< Don't be silly. It piles along the back and the flat table allows a rake access to any point easily. 

Writing about it now makes me wish I knew where the seams of good coal were so I could use it. 

My point being, there is no good reason to make the forge from heavy plate, even 1/4" is crazy heavy. My hood is 16ga. and way heavier than it needs to be. All a hood has to do is collect and carry smoke, fire proof paper would work

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty, and JHCC,

I understand what y’all’s saying, that I can get by with a lot lighter material,

I guess I could hunt around for some other lighter plate but That 3/8” plate is something I already have laying around not getting used and big enough to build what I wanted to build, and I have the space for it so I figured why not?

My plan was to weld 2-7/8” schedule 40 legs and then 2-3/8” schedule 40 cross braces between the legs, then a 2” lip around the sides and a tong rack on the front, it would be 4x4’ plus a couple inches sticking out on one side for the tong rack. 

 Y’all are right I’ll probably never put a 100 pound piece of metal on it and there’s no logical reason to make it that heavy other than that’s the material I already own and have laying around to work with. 
 

it’s not an emergency to build it, ive got other stuff to forge with and it’s 100 degrees outside so I’m not in any hurry, I’m just kicking around ideas right now and I very much appreciate y’all’s input!

I’ll look around before I start building and see if I can scrounge up any lighter materials cheap, if not than I’ll probably just use what I already have laying around 

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On 8/28/2021 at 5:19 PM, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

but I have do let go of tools to people who actually want to use it.
   I’d much rather the extra stuff I find that I don’t plan on using go to a good home we’re it will go back into service! 
 

 

 

 

Apparently i need to come shopping at your place then once ive saved some dough up! 

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Anyone’s welcome at my shop Anytime Longbowhunter! And I’d be more than happy to meet any other smiths that pass through my way!
 

Just let me know what your looking for before you come down and I’ll see what I can scrounge up during my weekend tool hunts!
 

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6 hours ago, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

 it’s missing the clinker breaker

Centuar sells a clinker breaker that will give you an idea on what yours would have looked like, it wouldn't be hard to forge/fabricate one. Look in forge accessories, firepots, replacement parts.

anvil made a post about that style breaker, but I can't find it right now. I think this is it.

https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/65708-fire-pot-dimensions-for-coal-forge/page/2/

 

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On my  55 forge I used a brake rotor and made a clinker breaker out of an old trailer hitch ball. I marked off 1/3 circumference and laid repeated MIG welds from the flat spot on top of the ball to almost the neck of the ball. Then I used an angle grinder to make the spaces between the welds somewhat flat. It works pretty well. OBTW - use an OLD rusty trailer hitch ball. Clean off any remaining chrome plate. You don't want to breath too much chrome fumes.

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I looked at the commercial ones available but they are way to small I would have to double them up just to reach across but then they weren’t wide enough to keep half the coal from falling down, the hole is 4” long x 3” wide, well actually it’s a little bit wider than3”

the hitch ball is a good idea but it’s also to small,

I’m gonna have to find something a little bit bigger this thing even swallows something the size of a beer can an still has room to spare, 

last few pictures are just for fun, apparently the 7 week old shop kittens thought I brought it home for them to use as a jungle gym, and if anyone is wondering apparently you can fit 3 cats that age comfortably inside this thing lol. 5C3808F7-04EF-42FD-9E05-7A6D738C8184.thumb.jpeg.5e2257e55d3b8a2f7db7db4c0eb6ca53.jpeg6252F9E8-1ED1-4907-AB8A-E63AEE307C25.thumb.jpeg.26d31a387e779fd5daebc0af41666d85.jpeg05B827E9-F458-4CC8-A9C5-509335DA2356.thumb.jpeg.a015513e54b7d0583a4a9fb698e8ecfd.jpegAD1F1955-0FF9-4B65-ABD9-521D0FB4BF62.thumb.jpeg.0a00f589a5b525f14fbf68fcb96e5c59.jpeg6FE2E3E6-D848-449D-A471-1F51037ABF71.thumb.jpeg.3a6e75f1feeec6ba51c60048b7e2e8bb.jpegE9F775B3-011E-4B74-B0FF-EF78EEC280A9.thumb.jpeg.70b35222e9ea15495fa4c2c81a882041.jpeg359E5EA0-520D-4D79-8439-091C1C2FF1A5.thumb.jpeg.ca9e9740af5a7def721675a0333b1cda.jpeg

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Great. One more thing to doublecheck before firing up the forge.

It occurred to me the other day that one could make a decent clinker breaker by cutting a bunch of triangles (or whatever shape one prefers) from heavy plate, drilling them to fit over the shaft/handle, stacking them together, and welding them up thus:

AAC9B7CB-A02B-4191-B430-E2C8A0B0B9EC.jpeg

(As a side-blast aficionado, I am unlikely to ever need to do this, but if anyone does give it a try, please let me know how it works.)

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Good one JHCC. I may need to try a side-blast to see how it works.

I'm not sure about this, and would like to get a more experienced opinion, but should the corners of a breaker be rounded? I may be wrong, but I think the idea is to lift a big clinker to break it into smaller pieces rather than grind it. All the ones I've seen are rounded, but then again, that may have just been from use. The flow of air around it would be less turbulent but is that a good thing?

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While you're looking for a clinker breaker that size, how about just making a bar grate? 1/2" round spaced maybe 3/8" apart laid across the opening. I like the round stock in hair pin bends over 3/8" inside "die". The bent pieces don't move as easily when you clean the fire. 

Raking with the bars causes the clinker to either rake out or it breaks up and falls through. If it sticks the point of the rake pokes it through easily. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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That’s a good idea too Frosty! That would be a way I could use it till I get a breaker built,

I don’t think I’ll find a clinker breaker this size commercially so I’ll definitely have to make one,  I was thinking  could get some 1/2” x3” bar stock and use JHCC idea something kinda like this to get my triangles ? C9D0E6BE-F075-4D15-BF68-786FE9857100.thumb.jpeg.cb5b44489ae4819e8b8a014c8dcf911b.jpeg

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You could use a grid, and space bars to rotate through the grid and break up the clinker. That way you not disturbing you fire every time you need to clear the grate.

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Every clinker I have had was like gooey glass when hot, not something that would break apart.  I just rake them out.  I have seen some "clinker breakers" that were offset, I have to spin mine around to adjust the airflow.  Clinkers are the main reason I am considering making a side blast forge.

Twisted, that 3/8" plate would make a good workbench top.

That blue eyed kitty is pretty cute.

 

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The bar grate was first suggested here by Glenn I believe. IIRC he suggested a number of straight pieces spaced across the air gate. Being loose would have the advantage of being able to move them when you rake and if you use the end of the rake as a pick they'll spread and crud would drop through.

I ran into trouble keeping them from all moving to one side and leaving a too large opening. So I tried making hair pin bends. 

I have discovered I much prefer slots to holes for an air grate.

Frosty The Lucky.

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