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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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For those who need to lock hardware together on the cheap, use sugar.  Mix with water to form a syrup and dab it on. Releases with hot water when needed. When I worked at the Jelly Belly Candy Co. I had to deal with sugared items. It was amazing how well it worked to glue things together, like cheater pipe good. Luckily most of the time all I had to do was grab a washdown hose (usually ran around 180F) to break it loose.

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2 hours ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

When I worked at the Jelly Belly Candy Co. I had to deal with sugared items. It was amazing how well it worked to glue things together, like cheater pipe good.

I can attest to the truth of this statement. I worked at VanMelle the company that makes Airhead candy. 

Pnut

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A friend was having a yard sale and had put a bunch of stuff in the “FREE” pile. I got a desk lamp with magnifying glass and a bunch of jeweler’s supplies, including some nice sharp files, a bunch of dental picks, various tweezers, buffing wheels and rouge, some silver solder, a chasing hammer, various small tools, and assorted chemical goodies. 

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Also, mail call! Two Victor universal nozzles with oxy-propane compatible brazing tips. The nozzles don’t fit my torch, but the tips (sizes TEN -0 and TEN-2) do fit my other brazing nozzle. 

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(I’ll probably put the nozzles on my tailgating table at Quad-State, unless anyone here is interested.)

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My dad works for Peterbuilt in the parts department. I asked him what they do with changed leaf springs/axels, etc. He told me to come out and see him today. Brand new set of leaf springs off a semi as they wanted a bigger set for this particular truck. About 500# of steel. I read they could be 5160 but more likely 6150. There is a company sticker on there with model number. I'll give them a call and see if they use a set steel or not. Either way I'll probably use it for punches and maybe forge weld some into axe heads. 

Semi Leaf Spring 2.jpg

Semi Leaf Spring 1.jpg

They are about 2.5" wide and 0.5" thick. Smallest piece about 8" longest about 3 ft

Also picked these up for $25 total. Need some work but that's fine for the price. 

Vises 1.jpg

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I called the company that sells the leaf springs. They said their spec sheets says 5160 or equivalent. I’m gonna assume that’s correct (most of what I found for semi leaf springs says 5160 or 6150). Won’t make knife blades from them just in case but may eventually try some forge welding and make a couple axe heads 

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"5160 or EQUIVALENT" means the springs are made of whatever steel meets the performance specs necessary to meet specs for a truck spring. No telling what the alloy really is, you'd have to ask the mill that supplied the steel.

Placing something without chrome between the pieces works and it's much safer than using the welding flux necessary to forge weld stainless.

Frosty The Lucky.

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My wife very kindly drove me to the scrapyard this morning as I was feeling withdrawl.  A lovely cloudy cool day for a very short perusal.  I did get some old rock drill---3' no center hole; a timing chain, 6# sledge head, 7.62mm Ammo box, 4'x1"x1/8" strap stock, small fireplace shovel, Some propane hose with a brass fitting on each end, spark plug socket...I passed on some coil and leaf springs and a couple of car axles.

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1 hour ago, JHCC said:

Mail call! A new face shield, with a flip-down eyeshade in shade 5. 

My only gripe is that it’s so close to the face that there’s not enough room for the Resp-O-Rator.

Get a real big neck gaiter and make Darth Vader sounds as you breath. That should work.

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1 hour ago, Purple Bullet said:

Get a real big neck gaiter and make Darth Vader sounds as you breath. That should work.

Keeping with a theme, he could get a really big neck goiter and make Jaba the Hut sounds. That should REALLY do it! :ph34r:

Frosty The Lucky.

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4 hours ago, JHCC said:

Mail call! A new face shield, with a flip-down eyeshade in shade 5. 

My only gripe is that it’s so close to the face that there’s not enough room for the Resp-O-Rator.

my father has the same one and i have found it wonderful i really enjoy using it

M.J.Lampert

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Went to my dad's place yesterday, and he is renovating an old house for a family member, dated somewhere around 1920 I believe. He pulled some things out of the wall that he thought I could use.

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He told me power lines used to run over these before they went inside the house. This week I'll check what kind of steel it is. Maybe wrought? 

~Jobtiel

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Today is a really exciting "it followed me home". I keep being blessed with being trusted as the custodian for good family heirlooms. I brought home my father-in-law's 10" South Bend lathe complete with all of his tooling and a bunch of stock. He was really particular about maintaining his tools so this thing is in amazing shape. Now it's my job to keep it that way for the next generation!  EA630F68-308F-4008-85A5-E60020D513B1.jpeg.b8e8c7690c53853b0b45affcf38b6370.jpeg

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That’s awesome! Congrats!

My cousin called me and said he replaced coils on about 7 cars last week. Gave me all the old springs. Also got the sliding vise cleaned up and lubricated. Lateral screw is slightly tight, depth screw spins great though 

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That's a SWEET lathe, congratulations! 

Frosty pro tip regarding lathes. Don't study the manual and try to figure out what all the tooling you got is for!

Read the manual and familiarize yourself with it, absolutely! My Father was a machinist for more than 60 years and was learning all the time. I grew up in his shop and don't count myself as a poor machinist though I can find my way around one. 

Start with the basics: 3 jaw chuck on round stock, pilot drill and live center to hold things steady. Cut with a Left hand bit, towards the chuck and use a finishing bit to produce a finish without tool marks. Once you can turn say 1 1/2" round to 1" dia. with a smooth finish, cut it off with a hacksaw. Parting bits are a PITA on a good day, something for later. Now you have a 1" Dia "pin if you left a little or the original dia for a shoulder.

Now, extend the 1 1/2" rnd stock still in the lathe so there's say 3" exposed and face it smooth and true. With a "Right hand bit," Outside to the center do NOT cut past center! Then pilot drill and bore it to a depth of say 1 1/2" with a 1/2" bit. Set the rotation speed low, 300rpm is kind of fast, it's hard to go too slow boring.

We're not shooting for optimum anything yet, you're learning how the lathe feels under your hands. Yes? There's nothing like a lathe to show you how a tool feels and sounds when it's cutting properly and with your hand on the tailstock feed wheel you'll soak the feel up through your main tactile sensors.

Once you've drilled to depth go to a 1" drill bit and reduce rotation speed till it sounds like it should. When drilling in a lathe USE OIL! When it's to depth check if your pin slips easily into the boring, if not.

Go looking for a "boring bar." The manual will show you what it looks like, how to set it up and how to use it. 

This is an example of why I suggest you NOT study and learn everything in the manual and tool pile, it's mass brain overload. What you REALLY need is enough knowledge and familiarity to locate what you need. No sense in memorizing every thing if you have a mental directory Yes? 

A boring bar is pretty advanced tool for a new guy but if you go slow and easy nothing terribly horrible is likely to happen. Just do NOT stand in the plane of rotation! If you run a bit into the chuck there WILL BE FLYING METAL!! Horrible noise and serious danger to anybody in the plane of rotation of the chuck! No JOKE!

I advise you NOT to use the automatic feeds until you have a decent handle on running your lathe.

Best would be if you know a machinist who can show you the ropes or take an extension course and learn from a pro.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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