Glenn

It followed me home

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5 hours ago, the iron dwarf said:

a piston I am told it is from a train engine

Aluminum? 

Ever seen the aluminum pistons carved into skulls? That'd be a very awesome one if you were up for it. Or, oh, if only you had two and the connecting rods! Could make a huge crossed piston sculpture!

Ah well. Thats just my thinking. :)

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 Propane hose/regulator/gauge combo and rigidizer have arrived. 

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This did not follow me home, the 20 oz bottle for a size reference.  A guy said his father worked at the plant during the 60's-70's when they made them and painted green with a grill layed over the pan and sold as bbq grills. $ 69.99.  It has all the correct casting marks on each side , Buffalo Forge, the blower was freed and had a mini turuye. The blower being so small I could only get a whisper of air up into the pan as " the guy" said it was all that was needed to get the charcoal going.  I'll let you decide.

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Scored some flutagon, otherwise known as Atlantic 33, from the flea market. I got the guy to separate the bunch from a large toolbox of stuff. No longer produced as far as I know. You can identify it in the dark by its distinctive shape. It has an interesting story to it.

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21 hours ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

That blower should blow your socks off.

It's not a foot rest. <sheesh!>:rolleyes:

Frosty The Lucky.

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local on line auction-----brand new for a Tahoe that retail @ 80 bucks a pop.  4 pieces----2 ....1/2 inch.....2 3/4 inch. $3 bucks a piece !

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These followed my neighbor home and he brought them to me.  He's seen some of my chainsaw chain Damascus.  The other picture is teeth off a tree mower.  No plans for them...yet.  I haven't done any research as to what kind of metal they are.  I'm guessing they are a medium carbon alloy of some kind. Carbide teeth(?) will have to come off.

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Maybe I'm wrong but I thought carbide didn't forge well and is hard to heat treat without an oven.  

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Carbide doesn't forge.  He would remove it so the steel its attached to would be used.  Unless he has a really heavy duty application that could use that carbide, it can be scrapped for a decent price.

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On 10/28/2018 at 2:22 PM, duckcreekforge said:

Scored some flutagon, otherwise known as Atlantic 33, from the flea market. No longer produced as far as I know. You can identify it in the dark by its distinctive shape.

You can most definitely buy brand new A33, flutagon, today.  Brent Bailey uses it regularly and just posted a video on youtube where he gives the contact info for a guy selling it by the foot for folks that want to try it, but can't afford a full stick of it.

 

 

My score for the day.....  a gorgeous vintage tap-n-die set.

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Just look at that magnificent color case hardening!  How could you not want something like this in your life?

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That 1/2-12 die isn't a misprint.  That's a very old thread style called the British Whitworth Standard (BSW) and is claimed to be the first standardized thread type.

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The set is missing one key set screw that I hope to replace soon.  And then I have to start hunting down sets of taps to go with them.  While I have the taper taps for all of them, I'd really like to get the plug and bottom taps to complete things.  I'll likely never ever need them, but sure as not, I'll have something come up where they'll be needed if I don't have them on hand!

 

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Carbide scraps fluctuates with the recycle market. I have bought it when it was $4 a pound and then watched it go up to $15 a pound. I was selling it for $30 a pound to users. New it runs well over $100 a pound.

It is not forged  due to the fact it is not a solid, but a powder held together with a binder.

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Any suggestions as to how to knock them out.  I was going to heat the tooth up and try to pop it out.  Biggun's kind of got me rethinking that idea.  

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If they found their way home with your neighbor,  then chances are they've lived their useful life in their intended application and aren't economical to reshape/sharpen. 

Just get em hot, there's a good chance they're brazed on.  If they don't loosen up past a red heat, then there may be a stem that goes into the steel... which will probably be a lot tougher to remove. Generally scrap gets better prices when separated from other 'stuff' that's clinging to it. 

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Yes, just heat them up with a torch and they should fall off.  The carbide I was buying and selling was used solid carbide form drills , and saw blades - high quality scrap.  Even so, the carbide you have has value and the weight adds up fast due to its density. We used to braze old carbide cutters to the skids of parking lot sweepers to make them last longer. Depending on their size they may have a secondary application worth more than scrap value.

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Carbides are silver soldered and will come off at low orange heat. Be sure to wire brush or sand the bit to remove the residual silver solder or it'll do ungood things in a forge weld.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Using GTTS one of our mechanic's called yesterday and said he had some stuff we might be interested in all for free.

Came home with 2 drag links with tie rod ends, an axle 2 inches in diameter and 2 feet long, a bunch of heavy duty mower blades, chainsaw blade & bar, diamond saw circle blade, and a strut with coil spring (not shown) & 2 disc brake rotors. Just noticed the axle is under the right drag link. I'll use my spring compressor to remove the coil spring. We are going to forge up some things to donate to him for an annual benefit auction his church is having in April.

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